by mrollingthunder » Fri Nov 29, 2013 7:01 am
OK, Time to nail this down:
Concept: A proxy for two seat, four cylinder, convertible sports cars from the 50's-80's that were affordable new or used. By affordable, I mean the cars anyone could afford and were simple enough that an average person with a set of wrenches and screwdrivers could work on them. Those still in High School, college, or just starting out, or someone who just wanted a fun, easy to work on second car, a retirement car, etc. Something simple that wasn't a budget breaker. For instance in High School in the early 70's I helped a friend get a Austin-Healey 100 that he purchased for $50 on the road (I won't say we restored it or made it really roadworthy :lol:) as the cars like this, MGA's, early MGB's and Spitfires could be had for next to nothing. My first Spitfire in 1980 was a 1968 that cost the outrageous sum of $225!
I'd like to see a proxy where someone with "0" scratch building skills could by a RTR car, maybe check all the tolerances, sand or replace the tires, run the car pretty much stock but sorted out, or change a few items like aftermarket wheels, guides, tires, etc, and still be competitive with someone who enjoys the challenge of scratch building.
To achieve this balance we would keep the rules simple. Lets shoot for fun and realistic appearance.
Motors: Any mass produced slim can motor 18,000 RPM or less. Rationale: To make it easier for the novice I looked at the range of RTR cars (such as the MGB, MGA) that currently are available. I see a range of motors from 15,000-18,000 RPM. As these are mass produced cars, they use a tried and true motor that will not run without mysteriously dying, burning up or running intermittently (unlike my experiences with a couple of my cheap motor proxy cars!), sort of like the engines that came in the 1:1 cars! An MRRC King Cobra with an MRRC Sebring chassis and 18,000RPM motor is almost uncontrollable with this motor.
Wheels and tires: Black Rubber or Urethane tires )including anything that comes on the RTR cars) on 13", 14" (or if verified) 15" X 5MM wheels to come as close to scale to that which was stock for the car. This would negate any advantage to a more powerful motor or outrageous chassis and allow a RTR wheel to be competitive. For those wishing to scratch build or upgrade RTR cars these are readily available and reasonable from any number of suppliers.
Inserts: Either molded in detail from RTR wheels or period correct inserts in after market wheels.
Guides: Anything suitable for a plastic track. My track has a particularly challenging Scalextric hairpin, so a wood track guide won't work at all!
No magnets: Anyone who ever drove these cars on little 5" tires can attest to the fact they didn't handle like a slot car with a magnet!
Bodies: Any plastic or resin bodies (no vacuum formed lightweight specials). RTR 1/32 scale, must be as close as possible to scale. In the case of aftermarket or resin bodies they must be as close to possible to scale , shall we say +/- 10%
Interiors: As much detail as possible. I realize these things are tiny, so a shelf with at least a driver arms and shoulders, seat and dash tops and a head that is 3D. In short, no vacuum formed one piece body and head). Helmets, non helmets, street or race.
Chassis: 3/16" clearance minimum, otherwise "run what ya brung." RTR, Aftermarket, scratchbuilt, remember: skinny tires with no magnets are the great equalizers. I would suggest that someone wanting to build a car but not scratch build, a MRRC sebring chassis and running gear from any donor car will fit under just about any body.
Windshields: Stock, or if the car is a racing version, art least a cut down screen or aftermarket screen as verified from period photos.
Numbers: If you want a race livery, fine, or want it to look like the street car you once owned or always wanted, no problem.
Scoring and points: To be determined, but definitely a big bonus for the most authentic presentation (anyone know how to reproduce bondo and rust in 1/32 scale?) Remember, this is for fun!
Sound good so far?
Here is a quick list of 4 cyl. open and affordable cars that came to mind, feel free to comment and make suggestions:
Alfa Romeo: Giulietta, Giulia, Graduate
Austin-Healy: Sprite (all), 1953-56 Austin-Healey, Austin-Healey 100-4
Chevy: Corvair
Crosley: Hot Shot and Super Sports
Fiat: 850, 124, X-19 (including Bertone), 1200/1500/1500/1600
Honda: S600, S800
Lotus: 7, Elan, Elite
Mazda: Miata (It has been pointed out to me that they started production in 1989)
MG: T-Series, MGA, MGB, Midget
Porsche: 356, 914
Sunbeam: Alpine
Triumph: Tr2, 3, 4, 7, Spitfire
VW: Cabriolet, Karmann Ghia