European affordable sports cars from 50's-80's Interest?

[Ember]

I take it as meaning affordable in the day Munts. Certainly none of them are particularly affordable at the current time.The Sprite, Healey, Speedster and XK120 fit the class.

My take is that they are the sort of cars that the SCCA and similar were built on. Actually... Perhaps a Porsche 550 and Denise McCluggage should be my aim. Or perhaps I should stick to the XK120s and Evelyn Mull. Or maybe a Ginny Simms TR3.

[mrollingthunder]

My thoughts as well. The "bigger" sports cars (both in size, displacement and cost) Cobras. Ferraris, Allards, Jaguars,911,and the like were not entry level cars by any means! And besides, so many proxy's have allowed these cars in the past it wouldn't be much of a challenge.

Keeping the motors in the 15000-18000 RPM range would allow just about all the current RTR Scalextric, Scalextric and NINCO cars using the smaller Slimcan motors to qualify. Anything more than that would neither fit under the shell nor would there be any point to it as scale 4-5" wide tires on scale 13"-15" wheels just won't grip with too much horsepower. It would also probably negate any advantage that a scratchbuilt chassis would have over a RTR car or something like an MRRC adjustable chassis.

I'd like to keep the cars limited to those that fit the entry level label as new or especially used cars during the period. Alfa Romeo spyders, Austin-Healey 100, Bugeye Sprites, later Sprites, MGA, MGB, TR2,3,4,250, 6 or Spitfires, Fiat 2000 or 124, Fiat X19, Datsun 1600-2000 roadsters, Karmann-Ghia roadsters, VW Cabriolet, maybe a Porsche Speedster or a Lotus 7 or Elan, Anyone thunk of any addition 4 cylinder convertible two seaters from the period?

[Ember]

Sunbeam Alpine or Tiger? Just been perusing Pendles.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

An Alpine would be fun. I didn't know anyone was making them.

[Ember]

I reckon I saw one listed the other day, but I've been in search of it again and I'm afraid I must've been hallucinating.

[Wolseley Hornet]

You were right,Ember.

It's in the resin body kits section of Pendle's catalogue.Looks like an early one with very high rear wings. They also had a Tiger in the Ocar"sold out"section - wish they wouldn't do that!

David.

[Ember]

Relieved that I wasn't dreaming, but I wish it was still available.

[mrollingthunder]

[MrAdept]

[Ember]

Matchbox do a static model kit of the MGTC which might be suitable for recasting in resin if anyone were interested.

Nice to see Ocar back at it. Quality varies a bit, but there are some cars that they offer that are impossible to get or afford any other way.

[Ember]

Not fair, I can't build as fast as you guys. You folks churn them out. I need time.

[Ember]

Got to see what I've got here that fits. I think I've got a Spridget shell somewhere.

[Retro Racer 44]

This sounds like fun. I have a Munter resin XK120 Jag with a Scaley FC 130 can in it at the moment. If the car fits the category, and S cans are acceptable, and given enough lead time I might be ready to join the fun. Are the rules posted? I didn't see any, but maybe I missed them.

[Austin]

I need to find a body before I can start

[mrollingthunder]

OK, Time to nail this down:

Concept: A proxy for two seat, four cylinder, convertible sports cars from the 50's-80's that were affordable new or used. By affordable, I mean the cars anyone could afford and were simple enough that an average person with a set of wrenches and screwdrivers could work on them. Those still in High School, college, or just starting out, or someone who just wanted a fun, easy to work on second car, a retirement car, etc. Something simple that wasn't a budget breaker. For instance in High School in the early 70's I helped a friend get a Austin-Healey 100 that he purchased for $50 on the road (I won't say we restored it or made it really roadworthy :lol:) as the cars like this, MGA's, early MGB's and Spitfires could be had for next to nothing. My first Spitfire in 1980 was a 1968 that cost the outrageous sum of $225!

I'd like to see a proxy where someone with "0" scratch building skills could by a RTR car, maybe check all the tolerances, sand or replace the tires, run the car pretty much stock but sorted out, or change a few items like aftermarket wheels, guides, tires, etc, and still be competitive with someone who enjoys the challenge of scratch building.

To achieve this balance we would keep the rules simple. Lets shoot for fun and realistic appearance.

Motors: Any mass produced slim can motor 18,000 RPM or less. Rationale: To make it easier for the novice I looked at the range of RTR cars (such as the MGB, MGA) that currently are available. I see a range of motors from 15,000-18,000 RPM. As these are mass produced cars, they use a tried and true motor that will not run without mysteriously dying, burning up or running intermittently (unlike my experiences with a couple of my cheap motor proxy cars!), sort of like the engines that came in the 1:1 cars! An MRRC King Cobra with an MRRC Sebring chassis and 18,000RPM motor is almost uncontrollable with this motor.

Wheels and tires: Black Rubber or Urethane tires )including anything that comes on the RTR cars) on 13", 14" (or if verified) 15" X 5MM wheels to come as close to scale to that which was stock for the car. This would negate any advantage to a more powerful motor or outrageous chassis and allow a RTR wheel to be competitive. For those wishing to scratch build or upgrade RTR cars these are readily available and reasonable from any number of suppliers.

Inserts: Either molded in detail from RTR wheels or period correct inserts in after market wheels.

Guides: Anything suitable for a plastic track. My track has a particularly challenging Scalextric hairpin, so a wood track guide won't work at all!

No magnets: Anyone who ever drove these cars on little 5" tires can attest to the fact they didn't handle like a slot car with a magnet!

Bodies: Any plastic or resin bodies (no vacuum formed lightweight specials). RTR 1/32 scale, must be as close as possible to scale. In the case of aftermarket or resin bodies they must be as close to possible to scale , shall we say +/- 10%

Interiors: As much detail as possible. I realize these things are tiny, so a shelf with at least a driver arms and shoulders, seat and dash tops and a head that is 3D. In short, no vacuum formed one piece body and head). Helmets, non helmets, street or race.

Chassis: 3/16" clearance minimum, otherwise "run what ya brung." RTR, Aftermarket, scratchbuilt, remember: skinny tires with no magnets are the great equalizers. I would suggest that someone wanting to build a car but not scratch build, a MRRC sebring chassis and running gear from any donor car will fit under just about any body.

Windshields: Stock, or if the car is a racing version, art least a cut down screen or aftermarket screen as verified from period photos.

Numbers: If you want a race livery, fine, or want it to look like the street car you once owned or always wanted, no problem.

Scoring and points: To be determined, but definitely a big bonus for the most authentic presentation (anyone know how to reproduce bondo and rust in 1/32 scale?) Remember, this is for fun!

Sound good so far?

Here is a quick list of 4 cyl. open and affordable cars that came to mind, feel free to comment and make suggestions:

Alfa Romeo: Giulietta, Giulia, Graduate
Austin-Healy: Sprite (all), 1953-56 Austin-Healey, Austin-Healey 100-4
Chevy: Corvair
Crosley: Hot Shot and Super Sports
Fiat: 850, 124, X-19 (including Bertone), 1200/1500/1500/1600
Honda: S600, S800
Lotus: 7, Elan, Elite
Mazda: Miata (It has been pointed out to me that they started production in 1989)
MG: T-Series, MGA, MGB, Midget
Porsche: 356, 914
Sunbeam: Alpine
Triumph: Tr2, 3, 4, 7, Spitfire
VW: Cabriolet, Karmann Ghia