Proslot motor brush wear

[Abarth Mike]

I have a PS-4001 (I think) anyway I ran it for the first time on the bench at about 5v to "break it in". The brushes disappeared down to about half the length in about 15 mins. When I ran the motor in lighter fluid to clean it out the fluid was like black paint. Is this normal? Are the brushes really that soft? I have never experienced brush wear like this before, having only ever run RTR 1/32 motors and some SCX and even older scalextric motors with replaceable brushes.

[Florida_Slotter]

Newer brushes are very soft. I simply run a new motor or about 20 minutes at 4.0 volts, after I radius the brushes.

[dr fabio]

Did you run it in under a water bath?? DONT!!!!!! Binder material is water soluble. I don't think much od proslot brushes. All they are is carbon, no copper content at all. How do I know that...I had them analysed using XPS at work.

[RichD]

That is very strange, I will have to look at the brushes in the ProSlot motor that I have. If I was still working I could get them analyzed by EDS, but if there was any copper it would be easy enough to see mixed with the dust. If you do a break in using any liquid only run the motor for a minute or two. If it was me I would be tempted to replace the all carbon brushes with copper/carbon brushes. I think that replacement brushes for a '60 vintage 16D motor would fit, or modern 16D brushes could be sanded down.

[Foamy]

NO WATER BEAK IN FOR ROAD RACE MOTORS!!! The brushes changed a couple years back and they die quickly. If you really must for some reason, then 5 seconds MAX at 4-ish volts. The OEM brushes aren't that great, but the Gold Dust brushes run swell. You need to shorten them about .040" or so to fit. Koford sells the Bigfoot 2 brush that is already radiused to the length you need for the mini motor. On really high power, the Koford brush runs a bit cooler than the Gold Dust, but the Gold Dust are faster.