Spray Booth

[RazorJon]

the filter catches the over spray

[mfogg]

...

[RichD]

Here is an article on how to post pictures. Once you do this a few times it should be easy. https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzLR42N ... =drive_web

Having worked with fume hoods in the lab for many years I knew that you get the best air flow if the air does not have to turn a corner, otherwise I might have put the fan intake at the top or bottom. I also wanted to keep the spray away from the light. There was a size limitation imposed by the fact that the chipboard that I had was only a foot wide, plus I wanted the spray booth to be fairly compact. The furnace filter at the back is to keep most of the solids from the spray out of the fan. In my basement I have ductwork that goes outside. If I want to use the booth upstairs I can hang the end of the elephant trunk out of a window.

[ecr]

Yes richd
I agree ,your air flow likely removes the fumes quicker than my paint booth,
I also like the furnace filter at the rear,which can be changed if need be.
Painting in my configuration also leaves overspray on the back wall as you can see.
Whatever we use it's going to be better than what we started with (the box) right !

[dreinecke]

So here's a question: I'm shooting automotive rattle cans...any issue with fumes and the fans? IE: things go boom? I'm assuming you guys are shooting acrylics?

[ecr]

Yes David
The fact of the matter is,the fumes are flammable,the fan, while
running does have a arc inside the motor,any electrical switches nearby
could also cause trouble.
For this reason ,I always turn on everything,the light,fan,and anything else
that I intend to use. I do this at the very start of anything to do with
flammables.
This will make sure these fumes do not build up and the air flow has
already been started. The worst thing a person could do is make a large
amount of overspray or flammable fumes inside the mini booth and then
introduce a spark of any kind .
:naughty:

[RichD]

The fan that I use does not have a brush type motor, so there are no sparks. The thing with vapours is they only ignite when the concentration is right. If the vapours are too dilute or too concentrated ignition will not occour. In the case of my spray booth there is so much flow that the solvent vapours will always be too dilute to ignite.

[ecr]

ditto on bibsters request
Maybe I could make mine safer to use.
Thanks

[RichD]

I used a NuTone 696N fan from Home Depot. It is rated for 50CFM.

[RazorJon]

I just ordered a 4 inch duct fan for 24 bucks, comes with plug installed

[ecr]

duct fan is what I'v got, maybe it is brushless and has no spark.
BONUS for me !!
Richd
could we get a pic of the back of your booth, to see how the fan is
connected and where the duct work hooks in??
thanks
ecr

[RichD]

Here you go, you realize of course that I will have to charge extra for this!
The fan housing is rectangular, so it just sits in a rectangular hole in the back of the box and is held in place with four screws. I sealed a small gap between the housing and the box with duct tape. The connection for the elephant trunk is on the side of the housing. At the end of the elephant trunk there is a 3X4 inch adapter so that I can connect it to some existing 4 inch duct work when the booth is being used.

[dreinecke]

[RichD]

As someone mentioned earlier the power switch could be a possible source of ignition. As long as the fan was running before you started to spray that would not be an issue, however a cautious person might want to seal off the switch enclosure with silicone caulk.

[RazorJon]

I got my booth working this weekend



The light is rated for a 150 watt bulb I have a 90 and its nice and warm 9.50 for light

The Filter is a standard pleated filter 4.00 bucks

The air plenum is a 9"X 13" cake pan 3.00 bucks

Duct fan 24.00 on line shipped

Wood was free, just scraps from work

No more over spray on the floor is priceless,
keeps everything warm, fumes are at a minimum