Building a Chassis for a Sprint Car

[RazorJon]

With all the talk about building chassis around HRW lately I decided to let you in on my newest build, a chassis for one of the 6 sprint cars I have.

While down at SEMO Nick and I got to talking about building a chassis like the real car has. So for better or worse here we go.

The first thing I did was put the model frame and drive train together



I made the sides of my frame next, I just used .062 brass rod and some cheap old pliers to make my bends



I placed the rod on the side of the plastic model frame and copied the bends

[RazorJon]

With my sides done I connected them with cross rails



I then used the model to set my jig. I added some up-rites to the frame and attached my front axle tube





I used 4 penny's to keep the frame off of the jig

thats all for today,

[HomeRacingWorld]

Look at you go. Nice work so far.

Show off :)

[JimD]

Nice! It seems like you guys are all getting together to encourage me to start on my first! If nothing else, it make me think "look at ALL the different ways this can be done! Must not be a wrong way to do it, other than not trying it!"

Tanks for posting!

Jim

[scatman]

Jon, looking good. Thanks for sharing.

[Florida_Slotter]

[JimD]

Marty,

I have a pile of various brass stock on the bench as we speak! I need to get some silver solder and flux ans I am ready to start!

Thanks for the inspiration!

Jim

[Florida_Slotter]

Jim,

Silver solder?

Why do you want to make it so hard on yourself?

I've been using 60/40 solder for years. It is malleable rather than brittle. I find joints never split open like those that are silver soldered.

Just my opinion of course.

[RazorJon]

jump in with both feet, the solder that Harry gave me works well with no flux, not sure of the type?

HEY HARRY! WHAT KIND OF SOLDER IS THAT?

I do not plan adding all the braces just enough to make it SEMO tough

now I am off to build tire razors

I will try and get the rear axle on today
thanks for watching

[JimD]

Marty,

Just more of my lack of knowledge and experience. I have normal solder, I was under the impression that it needed to be the harder stuff? I guess just to make it easier and cheaper for the first attempt I don't have a problem with 60/40.

Jim

[SpeedyNH]

Florida,
agree 60/40 same reasons.

[Ember]

Yay. I finally got the answer to the solder question. Thanks. :)

[frank9129]

Remember this?
"by frank9129 » January 11th, 2013, 11:03 pm

I just found a new site (to me). http://firstquarterracing.com/index-200.html
Ed makes 1/4 scale sprint cars and other race cars. You have to check out his site.
I down loaded a Sprint Car Frame that is great."

The guy who owns this site is a member of out forum.
I downloaded his chassis designs and sized them on his web site.
Give it a look.

[HomeRacingWorld]

It is 60/40. I have MILES of it.

I like it for the reasons Marty and Speedy said. EASY to flow and work with, yet strong enough.

[SpeedyNH]

yeah, i tried silver for a while, back in the day, 'cause i'd used it rewinding arms (especially with that siver wire!) and figured it'd be the cat's meow. it was real pretty even tho it used more heat, and held like a rock... until i hit something hard. first time in a race i was scratching my head- it's silver solder, after all! gee! then i learned a little more about metallurgy.
now, when i want something really firmly fixed (aside from the good mechanical joint), i wire-tie it with like .010 or 015 steel wire after it's tacked in, then grind it flat on the bottom. not pretty, but if i really care, it sure doesn't come apart. 60/40 is the best i've found.