Dremel is too fast for trimming resin bodies

[ecr]

Cutting around the window openings is just so fussy !
How the heck do i turn down my dremel beyond it's lowest setting ??
I already tried a light switch dimmer,and used it to cut the voltage to the tool but it could not withstand the amperage and worked for a while,but soon burnt out. Any affordable suggestions ??
Thanks
ecr :character-oldtimer:

[Florida_Slotter]

Check out www.sciplus.com

They make several 15 amp motor controllers for under $30.00

[RichD]

The battery powered Dremel that I have can be turned down to a slower speed than my corded Dremel. You might try using the Dremel to rough out the window openings and finish with some small files. I bought a set of small files at Harbor Freight that work great.

[munter]

I agree with RichD....I might use the dremel for an initial trim but then go to the knife.....a #3 scalpel handle with a #11 blade.

Next I might use sanding sticks or files.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

I second munter's post. I also heat the knife blade, too. Don't even consider using the Dremel for fine work like that. The Dremel is a coarse tool, use a knife and a file or sanding stick for the fine work.

[HomeRacingWorld]

I like a good power tool as well. But for the window openings I have to agree. I use the "Amish Dremel" (small flat files) myself after removing the large bulk.

[ecr]

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
After a search for the switch Florida-slotter had suggested, I happen to run across a foot petal speed control sold for sew machines,rotary tool and scroll saw for under 20 bucks. Even better, I have one in our old sew machine that sits just 10 feet from me. I just never thought of it !! :violence-smack:
I'm just so inpatient with the file.
ecr :character-oldtimer:

[ecr]

Just finished trimming the 1956 Ford 100 I bought from gameover.
I used the foot petal,it worked real good and I was able to turn it down to a crawl, letting me get into some of the small areas without too much trouble.I still used the files near the end of the trimming
process,the vent windows were something I wanted to keep for sure !

ecr :character-oldtimer:

[dreinecke]

Thick resin windows are tough. I open them a little with the Dremel and then use a series of files or emery boards to file them down.

Ok, I lied. I refuse to mess with 1/2" thick resin castings anymore ;)

[waaytoomuchintothis]

A hot knife makes the difference. I learned that here, I should say. David's are nearly finished when they get to me, and that's good but I love the slosh resin bodies I get from guys like Dave. They are really a different class altogether, and of course, the price reflects the difference, which is equal and correct.

[frank9129]

I attack those Windows a little different.
I use the smallest drill bit I have, drill a series of holes as close as I can around the window, then I use an exact knife (upside down) and drag it across the holes until the window is free. Lastly I sand or file down as needed.
Works for me as I need to go slow due to a little shaking.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

That's a good way to do it, especially 1/24th where there may be a lot of material to carve out.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

I've been thinking about this one, and I don't think we have given all the advice we could have.

The key to using the Dremel well is control. You have to find a way to hold it that will not slip away from where you want it to be. Its a balance between the bite the drum, or bit has in the material, versus the hold you have and the motion of your hand while holding. The irony is that the faster it is turning, the more control you have, because the material is getting cut away so fast you can reduce the bite in the material that takes you off target and makes a mess. But beware the dust made from resins which is worse at high rpms, and remember that at high rpms, the tool is stronger as well as faster. Like flying a helicopter, small adjustments, slight movements, are the key to accuracy. I hope that helps.

[ecr]

While using the dremel, i have had it take off and remove material that was very crucial to the build. Normally I have waited for these bodies to arrive by mail order. As a 1:1 autobody guy, I can fix my mistakes,but I prefer not to continue to repair the problems that I caused !
I guess more patience for the detail of a smaller scale car is in order for me.
I suppose the file is not so bad after all!!
ecr :character-oldtimer:

P.s I had to look up the spelling on CRUCIAL !!
I'v been a bad speller for life :oops:

[munter]

I'm with you ecr. I have been grinding a body and something catches and whips the burr around to the outside grinding a chunk out of the wheel arch or rocker panel.

Here are the tools I mostly use for the 95% trim out. The pictures were taken a few years back and the only thing that has changed is that I almost never use the sanding drum.
Those dremel burrs are good. I have a couple of other shapes I use sometimes but these two are the main ones.
I poke the vacuum cleaner nozzle through the bench vice, swing the light around and go for it...sometimes I wear ear muffs and face mask as it is noisy and messy.