This topic could have a book written just for itself. Everyone will have their own opinions on what is the best way and why. Here I am going to share my method for this particular model, but in many ways it is how I approach most others. Is it perfect? Nothing ever is. I do know that the results achieved work well for my simple home racing. I also feel if you follow these steps your model will improve overall in performance.

There 3 things I check & adjust as needed:

1. Tripod Effect

In loose terms this means your guide and the rear wheels support most if not all, the weight of the car and the front wheels just barely touch the track surface. Hence the term tripod. Imagine your front tires acting as sort of outriggers for your car. My terminology is crude but I think most of you just starting out understand. The argument of the ideal setup is an old one in our hobby and I won't debate it. Regardless what you hear, most seasoned veterans will truthfully admit it is like debating on what is the best way too cook a steak. The answer is? The way YOU like it of course.

I prefer to have my front tires touching the track surface just enough for them to rotate on the straights, but not to fully support the weight of the car. This way the front tires prevent excess rollover and support the model in the corners, while not scrubbing off too much speed in the straights.

Adjusting this can be as easy as adding or removing shims from the guide or adjusting the front axle height, to the more complex that requires after-market adaptors. 

2. Guide Design

Check to see if the guide that came with the car is mounted securely. Some guide systems have an excess of free-play and this is not ideal. You don't want it leaning over when you head into the corners. Also check the depth of the guide blade. Too shallow and you might be popping out under throttle or when taking a hard corner. Too deep and it will drag in the bottom of the slot, possibly catching itself on the track joints. And finally the length. Too short is not that much of an issue, but too long can create binding in some of the tighter corners.

3. Braid & Wiring

Some models arrive with good braid that is wide enough for proper contact and soft enough to allow the guide to sit flush with the rails. Other times we have narrow braid that is very stiff and possibly too thick. Then we look at the wiring. Are the wires from the motor directly connected to the guide and braid? Maybe it is a wireless type design? Sometimes the wire used is not very durable and it might even be stiff, causing binding.

On almost all of my models I convert the guide system to a hard wired system. The braid & wire is usually changed to higher quality as well.

Our Porsche has familiar setup found in many slot cars. It is a solid front axle system that has quite a bit of vertical free-play. The guide has a small spring on it as well. The amount of free-play and this spring loaded guide help keep the braid in contact with the rails on some uneven track surfaces. The front axle literally "floats" over these uneven surfaces almost like the suspension on your car.

The main issue I have is that the front wheels/tires support too much weight. In addition, I do not need the spring loaded system for our track and the guide itself is not as deep as I would like.

So what shall we do? There are two methods I will cover.

The first is the quick and easy solution. SHIM the guide.

Remove the guide from the chassis, remove the spring, and then begin to add shims. Remember the link to the shims? If not, here is they are again.

On this model I stacked two .025" shims and this was enough.

Snap the guide back in place and check the front wheels. Do they rotate freely, but you can still feel or see them touch the track? If so, you are very close. In fact more than likely the car will now perform much better than it did in stock form. Just this small adjustment can pay big dividends in your car's operation.

You could stop here and start enjoying the model as is.

Remember you need to adjust this height based on your track. Some track systems have raised rails while others are flush.

This means the amount of shims will vary.

As usual I wanted to fine tune it even more. I had an idea for a home made adjustable system and after testing on the first model I decided to share it here.

First twist and pull one of the wheels off the front axle and set it aside. Don't worry about damaging the plastic in the wheels. It will press back on smoothly enough and still hold.

I cut a small section of plastic sheet and super glued it in place as shown above. If you don't have any plastic, try checking your local hobby shop for Evergreen or Plastruct styrene sheets. Even some parts from old model kits work just fine.

The reason for this plate is to just add more material for the screw to bite into, which aids in keeping it secure.

I marked the areas to drill by using the original axle mounts as a guide. I did this simply by eye and that is close enough for this modification.

Using a pin vise and a small 1.5 MM drill bit, drill all the way through until you come out of the bottom of the original chassis.

Using your wrench, insert a 5 MM oval point set screw onto the hole. You will need to use some pressure to start the screw. it will begin to cut into the plastic, simply self tapping itself into place.

Now install your front axle back into place and adjust the screws. I set mine at the highest limit to where there is virtually no free-play but the system spins freely.

For this model I also changed the guide, braid and even the wiring. I made the change because the Slot.it wood track guide works best for our wood tracks, pretty easy decision.

First you need to cut your braid from the roll. I usually start out with 1 inch sections. I then feed the braid from the top, pull from the bottom and then leave just a small amount to fold over the top of the guide to help hold it in place.

Once they are installed, I use a toothpick to round out the braid and contour it to the openings. This allows easier installation for the wire and set screw.

Although we made our adjustable axle, the guide still needs shimmed for our track. I used two of the shims shown above.

Because we still needed these shims, this reduced to amount of the guide shaft length inside the guide mount itself. Test fitting the guide in the original mount revealed we needed to remove some material on top so that the screw could be mounted securely.

The easiest and most accurate way is to file it by hand using a flat file. As I file I stop and check the contour and depth.

I went far enough for the screw to secure tight enough so it would not back out.

I like using the SCC silicone coated braided wire. The only way to cut it is to take your time and measure it out. I like to solder at the motor and route my wires where they need to be and leave enough on the end for the guide. Other enthusiasts prefer to go the other way. Do it the way you are comfortable.

The easiest and most reliable way to make your connection is the use of the M2 set screws. Pretty straight forward installation, literally. Insert your wire end into the hole you formed. Try to keep it lined up evenly against the braid and then install the screw. It will take a little elbow grease to start it, but you will be ready for power in just a few seconds.

You can perform some test laps now to make sure everything is secure and functioning. During testing you might notice the model is still showing some signs of hopping or slight chatter in the corners.