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Scanning can be a real challenge but nothing to be discouraged by. I opted out for the reasonably priced Matter and Form unit and currently running the third version of the software. With each revision of the software, the scan process changes and makes it somewhat easier. Recently I downloaded the third version of software so I thought it was time to give it a try so I purchased a 1/25 scale model of a 73 Mustang Mach 1. It wasn't a 72 but I figured that I could add a little putty and change that. Anyway I started the scan which took over an hour per scan and finished the three scans. Then I ran it through Nettfab, scaling it down to 1/32 and giving it a 1.5mm shell.

After about five hours the print didn't look to impressive.

But I figured what the heck, so I got out the tools and started working on it.

First I mark the cuts, then dremel around the cuts, and finally remove the material.

After much sanding and adding some milliput it did show some promise so I printed up a chassis and a running mate for a build to start my own Ford Chevy wars.
Anyway The reason it took so long to scan was that I used the second download version. An issue that I created with the third download is that when scanning is after a scan you don't save it and move to a new scan. With the third version you stay in the same project and just keep scanning, moving the object between scans to get better coverage. I'll have to try another scan and write about that later but now I need to get started on the Mach 1 and Z28.

This is 100% information I have needed.

I want to accomplish the same. I have several 1/25 kits I would very much like to have scanned and reproduced in 1/32. I have inquired to different shops/sources and either the cost bordered on the insane, or was told it couldn't be accomplished.

Thanks for this. My knowledge of the art of 3D scanning/printing/software ranks right there with how to make a tasty salad and what women really want. Seeing a product I was thinking of investing in helps a great deal.

:text-goodpost:

Being the former owner of a NextEngine - the scanning of 1/24-1/25 is actually pretty dang do-able.

Harry, you have good reason to be proud of your talent for the glib. This was perfect-

"My knowledge of the art of 3D scanning/printing/software ranks right there with how to make a tasty salad and what women really want." Both of which are only in existence theoretically, like Bigfoot, unicorns, and comfortable retirement on Social Security.

I don't know how much my eldest son can help, but he does this for a living, custom-designing orthodotic implants for total knee/hip/shoulder/etc replacements with sophisticated 3D software. Very high precision (angstrom tolerance, custom made for the individual who is having the surgery), delivered a day before the surgery to be sure it is exactly what is needed as soon as possible. If the software is something he knows, maybe he could answer the occasional question? What do you think? He is so insanely busy an answer might take a few days, though.

Since it is the internet, I'm all eyes also, therefore I would very much like to read up more on how to get a scan to work. It just doesn't seem right to have to do all of that sanding and using so much body filler.

Hi Cobra,

Nice setup you have there, I'm looking for a good scanner myself.
One suggestion though, have you considered printing the bodies vertically?
I have gotten great results that way, given it takes close to 20hrs at 0.05mm layers
But the results are great with minimal sanding.


I've even cut a small section off the model through NetFabb, printed both pieces and glued them together.
this version of the HQ Holden was split in the middle


I should note that I pass all my models through a website "Make Printable", very helpful for bits I may have missed, but again the orientation and slicer settings govern the quality of the print.

Great work
Cheers
NiMROD

NiMROD,
Please tell me that the March 707 will be available....

Thanks for the information Nimrod. I'll have to swallow the time factor and try out the vertical print next time. Are you using the ABS filament to print those out? The detail looks good.

Hiya Gentlemen,

Chappy, A friend in Tasmania will be cleaning this one up, hopefully it wont take too long.

Cobra, I've only ever used PLA. It's tough enough and mine is even 2 years old. the newer versions PLA+, etc are supposed to be far superior in printing detail and strength, I hope to buy some soon.
My settings for PLA printing: Tip temp 195 Deg, Heated Bed temp 60 Deg, Speed 30-35, Fan Speed 100%, Filament feeding speed 100%.
Normal superglue works great with PLA.
I use a glue stick on the glass base plate, works perfectly.
One thing that helped me get better consistent prints is take the time to level your plate as close to perfect as you can.

Cheers
NiMROD

This ^^^^^
Scanning and point clouds. It's a ton of work to edit and smooth the rough scans sometimes. That's why paying for an unusual body isn't a horrible idea to me, if folks make a living from it.

This is also why a very good scanner makes a huge difference.....

Yep. But even a top notch scanner will generally not be able to determine flow lines. And shiny or glass surfaces create nightmares. If it is your own model you are scanning, spray it down with an opaque non-reflective coating. And texturing it with random patterns can help the software to more accurately find corresponding points. For example, scanning my 81 yer old mother's face (with the usual rinkles) yielded a near perfect scan. But trying to scan my 10-year-old's freckled face and you could barely recognize the result as humanoid. The freckles confused the software. But the software is improving constantly, as is the hardware.