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Hey guys I could really use some help. Bought 2 used SCX Compact Cars for my carrera GO. I used a friends and loved speed and how it drifts. Mine both won’t run. I see the “ear” on the one is broken. Anyway go replace/repair that? On the other, the “ears” are there. I made sure they have some spring and movement to them. The track goes but stops thruoit the track. When it runs, runs great but stops periodically. I did normal cleaning and lube. On stock 14,8V wouldn’t run so I bumped to 20V and is better but still won’t run consistant two laps or without stopping.

Thanks for help

(Can’t wait till I’m helping people, not always the other way around)

Shows braids. Were they cut?

Easiest way is to get a spare part car and take the part from that, hard to find nowadays so maybe not the best solution.
You can make new part yourself and glue it to the chassis, doesn't have to be exactly like the original but something that gives a connection to the braid.
Or you can cut the circular area around the post off from the chassis that holds the guide with Dremel and carefully solder the wire directly to the braid.
This cutting is needed so that wires have room to move.
If you cut that piece off better solution than soldering wires to the braids is that you change the guide completely.
Braid guide https://www.shapeways.com/product/32ZD9 ... d=56198164
or wire guide (slide guide) https://www.shapeways.com/product/TBZGF ... d=61049064
both works well, braid guide is better IMHO.
Pfuetze's guides are easy to mount.
Enlarge the hole where guide is carefully with 4mm drill bit.
Take a short piece of 4mm brass pipe and glue it to the hole.
Then just use M3 nut to keep the guide in it's place.
Don't use 1/32 braid, it's too thick usually, desoldering braid works fine.
Changing braids to your guide might help, looks a bit worn out and short.

Cheers

Aki

Like Aki and Roland already said, i think you will need to replace both the guide itself and the copper strips.
you can use the guide Aki linked.
be sure to use some high flexible silicone coated wire (0,25mm2 is sufficient) for a motor cable. be aware that you will need to solder the wire to the motor.

Peter

Did you set the braids correctly? It really helps to widen them up by pushing the end of each braid to the front of the car so they fan out some and then position the braids so they match the rails on the track. If you post a pic of the underside of the car with the guide blade, then I can tell if they look good or not.

Best regards,
Brian

Hey BRS. You are Brian, correct? We have been emailing back and forth.....Apecorari. Too funny.
I’m out and will take a better photo when I return home but they are similar to this. The Briads do look cut. We tried pulling them through so there would be only one braid from the front going back, but it didn’t work well like the Carrera.

I️ really like these cars and how they drive so hoping I️ can get it to work. Theirs not too many out there.

What am I doing wrong guys?

Apec,
That's me. Small world.

The car with the tabs sticking out of the chassis should work. It looks like the tabs are tweaked some. The tabs should stick out slightly from the bottom of the chassis but more importantly, the tabs should be parallel to the bottom of the chassis. Basically, the part that goes thru the chassis should be straight and then the tab should be a 90 degree bend. If adjusted correctly, the tab or oval shaped part will be parallel to the backside of the braid that is on the guide and each tab should be able to be pushed in a little and then spring back. Also, the braids look good except it is best to have them as close to the bottom side of the guide as possible (not sticking out).

If the car doesn't work after those adjustments, then perhaps something is wrong with the motor.

Best regards,
Brian

In the middle photo in your last post, the tips of the braid look dirty. Clean them with wd 40. It can make a lot of difference. The braid also looks worn on the tips also. I would clip the ends straight and spread and adjust like Brian said [more of the braid will touch the rail allowing more power to pass through them].
They look like they may be a little short, especially after you clip them straight. I would get a roll of new braid . You will need it at some point anyhow. A 3' roll is about $5.
I suspect that the problem may be a combination of things that everyone has suggested.
Randy

Braid :

As long as braid is being used, there is only one strip on each side of the guide.
No idea why SCX now brings two, which causally have to be shorter.

When starting to find the best contact, the strips should be as long as the guide. Not longer, not shorter. You can cut them if necessary, but you can´t lengthen them.

The strips should be really even and flat, no kinks, no buckling.
The best possible adjustment at the beginning is, the braid lies flat on the underside of the guide, when the car is on the track, and the front wheels touch and roll. When you take the car off the strips should spring back to an angle of - let´s say 30°.

Keep in mind - the shorter the strips are cut, the stiffer they become and it takes more power ( = weight ) to get them flat down on the track and towards the underside of the guide - vice versa their leverage rises, and the car may be pushed out of the slot more easily. The longer the lever of the braid, the softer the spring power it has.

Here you see already that the SCX guides with their double braid stumps cannot be optimum.

Therefore - for a good car do what we described above, and insert a normal guide.

Then you can experiment :
- bend the braid into a flat curve downward to the track, beginning at the guide
- spread the strands at the end to touch a wider track braid area
- shorten them a bit, step by step

and whatever your creativity suggests.

The original guides produce too much variables for a really good slotcar. If it weren´t so, they would have been used long since. Everything IMHO and personal experience. Not more.

Roland

I have tried a single braid from the front running parralel to the chassis like this Carrera, but again no luck. Like you guys say i think it’s a combo of a few things, mostly the contact of the tabs.
Does anyone have a photo of theirs so i can see? Not many online from my search (that i can trust.)

Thank You