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Seen a couple chassis modified out on the Web. Since the wife's chassis had a broken motor mount hoop I decided to try and butcher it up. At first I was going to use one of the guide flags but found out I don't have any nuts to attach them.... I suck at soldering but I am getting better. Gear mesh feels very tight I tried shaving down the back of the crown gear a little. May give it a bit more of a shave.



suggestions and critiques appreciated

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the motor axle any the rear axle need to be in a line.
if you want to lower the motor you will need to take more material away under the motor in the rear.

What Peter said. The motor shaft and the rear axle need to be on the same plane. You either have to lower the rear or raise the front of the motor mount to achieve this. When you do the gears will turn much easier.

Re guide flag

The right diameter styrene tube cut to size can be used as a collar to attach the guide flag the chassis if you have any lying around.

Cheers

Dan

Doh, I knew it was something simple that I overlooked. Thanks guys.

As for the styrene or hardware. Unfortunately only thing left resembling a hobby shop is hobby lobby... Next weekend I'll try to head into one of the big cities and see if I can score more building materials

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Thanks dan and pfuetez. Ground out the supports and remounted the motor. Had to grind the magnet a tad, and add a new spur gear. runs smooth and quiet now :-D not to mention when it deslots it keeps upright not tumbling all over the place like it used to

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that what the lower CoG does for you :D

I Always take it careful when grinding anything. ;-)

I smoked the motor on my favorite car... Literally. :-( so I pulled it apart to drop a new motor in and decided to modify the car while I was at it.



The Benz has always been my favorite of the fleet, decided it needed an upgrade and help in the realism dept





Unfortunately everything fit just fine until I added the wires to it and tried to put it back in... So I desoldered the leds from the board, dug through the parts box came up with a second kit, and mounted everything free form. Works good, I just don't have enough high speed straights to keep it charged up enough to keep the headlights on full power for more than a few laps :-/



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artin cars and permanent light kits are not an easy solution.
tried it and it works, more or less. but as you wrote, without long straights, it´s nearly impossible. also the artin motor doesn´t help the charging, as it fast and has nearly no brakes.

That's a shame, never thought about the motor in the equation. I think you're talking about it turning into a generator when off throttle. Anyways I need to get some better motors then. All I have are these 130ish motors. I say ish because they look like 130s but are a hair bigger in width and height. Good torque, last forever at 12 + v but not quite the rpm at speed that the mabuchis have. I'm finally down to four of them from the original 20 (thank God!)

Neways I was thinking that there's a few ways I could make the headlights last better. The taillights last for freaking ever! I could separate them from the circuit, at least in this car I have the room to run 2 circuits. Or I could lower the resistor / raise the resistance of the taillights. Dare I say it match the taillight resistor. I know that would reduce the time that they are all on after a deslot, but honestly those taillights are still dimly glowing an hour after I remove it from the track. Or there's the nuclear option of ditching the circuit just hard wiring the resistor to the + track input....

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As for the lights... don't use the lights bulb that comes with Artin cars get some 1.8 or 3mm LED's instead

As for magnets you can put it inside the chassis one on each side of the motor works great , you'll get something between full magnets & non-magnets racing

Mikey

you can raise the resistance for the rear lights, they will be not as bright.
why do they last longer? because they do not need the high voltage as the white leds.
red leds need 1.8V, white leds need 3.4V, that´s why. you charge the goldcap from zero up to 5.5V.

if your track is wired for brakes, when you release the controller, the motor is short circuited via the controller and runs as a generator, the part is correct. but you can´t use that voltage for the lights. it goes into heat inside the motor.

Peter

Ahh thank you, wasn't thinking about the voltage requirements of the LEDs, was thinking path of least resistance. I'm normally the guy who goes and replaces stuff, not the guy who designs it. I know just enough to blow myself up lmao.

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Mikey, thanks for the magnet advice, I will try that soon. Right now I'm trying to find out why this motor is... Well slow. I expected a little slower but about half the speed of a stock artin at 12v. I pulled it out, found that some hot glue got up between the pinion and endbell. I grabbed another one out of my parts box, desoldred the LED circuit from the motor leads, same result. I found one artin chassis I've never run, going to pull the motor out of it and see if it'll bring some of the speed back. Kinda sucks to go from the all out fastest car to the slowest.

At least I can still out drive everyone in my house lol

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