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Hi Guys!

Dumb question here but here goes......

When you guys solder a brass chassis when building one do you use a soldering iron to solder it together or a burnsamatic type torch for soldering copper pipes with?

I'm new to the whole brass chassis building realm so bare with me......

When building scratch builds I typically use a donor car for its chassis and cut it down to the size I need.

I've never dabbled with brass chassis before and might like to jump in the water and try.....

Dixon John;'s how to article was really well written but unfortunately I needed even more basic then that.

Again any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

Wayne (Bolton's Speed Shop) :D :D :D

Thanks Jeremy!

Very much appreciate your help and insight!

Like everything else in life, you just need to jump in and start swimming!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Take care,

Wayne (Bolton's Speed Shop) :D :D :D

I use both. As far as a torch goes, Harbor Freight has a little butane torch.It's a pretty cool little deal. You can catch it on sale for about seven bucks. As far as an iron goes I use a 100 watter. I like a lot of heat. The smaller ones say 25 to 35 watts will work, They just take more time. They cool off pretty quick when you touch em to the brass. A decent iron I use to use was a Hobbico 65 watt. The tip isn't the greatest but they give you an extra tip. I believe Tower Hobby's and also Hobby Lobby(The hobby store,not the craft store) carry them for around 15 bucks

Thanks Marty!

That was very nice of you to provide me this information!

It will be very helpful in my soldering adventures.

I currently have a Weller soldering station at home with various change out tips to use.

Not sure of its wattage though?

I will have to check and see?

Again Thank you again!

Now I just have to get some brass material and jump in and do it.

Take care,

Wayne (Bolton's Speed Shop) :D :D :D

The key to building brass and wire chassis' is lots of practice. This works better than any other thing I can think of. Having an iron that has sufficient wattage is also a big help. I use a Hakko iron made for stained glass work. I like Hakko's because they last a long time. :)

"Now I just have to get some brass material and jump in and do it."

There you go. THAT is how you will figure out what works for you.

Jeremy,

While it simply looks complex, the true complexity comes when you have the ability to touch it, press on different bits and pieces and see the movement. There are simply so many damper rails, movement, limiters and such that the chassis is one of the most enjoyable chassis to drive. As it enters a turn it kind of soaks up the energy and stores it in the chassis by 'coiling up' and then upon exit of the turn, releases that energy. This chassis literally 'jumps' off the turn. It's simply awesome to be able to drive one of them. You might get an opportunity to do that one day.

Some guys are real artistes when it comes to building chassis'. I try to not make them too complex, but just enough to make it run well. It's all in what steps you're willing to take. I don't think I have ever made the same chassis twice. I always think of other things I could do to it. The only limiting factor is your imagination. :)

Wayne,

I regularly solder large stamped stainless steel chassis and add piano wire and brass and use nothing more than a 60W soldering iron with a 1.5mm tip. The solder flows like hot butter. The trick is to make sure everything is very clean and to use phorphoric acid to coat the parts prior to soldering. This stops the metal from forming an oxide layer which then prevents it from being soldered. The stuff they add to Coke is phorphoric acid, trouble is all the sugur will cause you grief. Dont use Bakers soldering flux, it will eat piano wire. They use phorphoric acid in rust removal treatments so perhaps try your local hardware or auto body shops. Im lucky enough to get it from work.

cheers
dr fabio

Hey, if it works for you, then it's all good.

As I said in my post above. I use what works for me. I've done this for quite some time. I like the way my chassis turn out, so I'm kind of resistant to change. As you are starting out, "Your technique" is what you have to develop. I still think that the best thing to do is get some wire and brass and just sit and solder it. When you can get a couple of pieces joined together and the solder flows, is smooth and shiny, they you have learned how to solder.

The more you solder, the quicker "the touch" will come to you. As with any other artform, the more you practice, the more you develp your style.

In the words of Nike . . . . . Just Do It!

I haven't used soldering paste since the '60's. I think RussKit made some. It came in a small 1oz. jar I believe. It worked great for soldering wires on rewound motors. May have to try it again. :)

Oatey also sells a liquid acid soldering flux. I got a bottle at my local ACE Hardware store. I'll use paste flux if soldering brass to brass. When soldering brass to steel & steel to steel, I use a liquid acid flux. The acid flux will "bite" into the steel better than the paste.

This may help, part one of five.