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That is cool Marty. I need more practice with that chassis, but you seem to have it down pat.

Will follow this!

Looking good so far. Keep us posted.

Harry,

One of the main reasons I like the chassis is that you can make it inline or sidewinder by just changing the motor pod. I think that's a very cool feature.

Plus it is very adjustable to fit many applications.

Yesterday I noticed it fit another body that has been sitting in my parts box. I found another set of body mounts and now it too fits the chassis. So you can build one chassis and fit many bodies to it!

Think of the flexibility that provides!

I have been curious about these Snap Tite static model bodies. Marty, this Mustang body that you have used here.. how does it compare with “normal” slot car bodies. Compare it to, say a Mustang Scalextric or Pioneer body. Is it heavier in weight or maybe more brittle, therefore not hold up to the “occasional” de-slotting into the wall? In your opinion, do the static model bodies really offer us more than just a pretty face? I wonder about this because just buying a new slot car body is pricey. BTW, your Mustang looks awesome. Thanks for posting. :clap:

I have the same Mustang but it's still in the box. I was going to do a brass and wire chassis for it, but I just may go with the HRS2. That would make it much easier to complete. :)

The first 8 slot cars I bulit and raced on my routed oval were street stocks made from these Snap-Fit bodies fitted to extended Revel-Monogram chassis. That was about 7 years ago and they have held up fine after thousands of laps. In fact, they are the cars I Ieave out when new people want to test out the track. The fact that they are simple models (low skill) means they have fewer parts. The bodies are one piece and you only need to glue on some front and rear pieces for racing.

I used the 60's Mustang, Camaro, and GTO models from the 'Stealth' series. The same cars have been released in several versions. The newer Shelby Mustang is similar and I made that into a slot car too using an Artin chassis that later found its way under a Lindbergh '34 Ford body. The Linbergh kits are harder to use bacuse the bodies are in pieces that need to be glued together and if the racing is going to get rough I'd recommend strengthening the joints with hot glue or plastic bracing. I haven't found a need for extra bracing with the Snap-Fit bodies.

Slothead

Nice looking ride! Those chassis are really great!

Nice build!!

Rusty

Well as promised once I had a chance to test it, I would tell you how it ran.

I don't know if this is a proper method, but after running this car around yesterday, I would certainly build another, just like it!

The car looks good going down the track. I think those SCC provided C.B. Design 17 x 11 rear wheels just set it off the way it should look. Nice healthy 'meats' in the back and 17 x 8 in front just make the stance correct.

With the H&R Hawk 18,000 rpm motor mounted in the chassis, I do believe the power delivery is right on. You can get back on the throttle in mid corner and not upset the balance of the chassis. The car just steps out a bit, directly proportional to the amount of throttle is applied. I'm happy with that!

ModlerBob grabbed one of his Scaley T/A Mustangs from his shelves and the race was on. I was able to trailer the Scaley car without much effort.

Overall the car is a win-win.

Now all I need to do is build an interior shelf, decide on which livery I want to paint it and finish it up.

I think if you build one just like it, you should be very happy with the results.