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Since I recently acquired the definitive 1/32 model of the 1966 Daytona Continental winning Ford GT MkII from Slot.It I had in hand a good candidate for modification, being my Fly version of the same car. During my research about this car I happened across a photo of the three Fords that finished the race being loaded on a transporter for delivery to Sebring. They were all very grimy having collected a lot of soot during the race. So, after making a couple of modifications to the Fly model including the removal of the rear deck scoops and the orange bands on the right side door, I decided to add some significant weathering to the car. Here is the result.

Looks good, really adds a lot to the car.

Looks good. Race cars running that amount of time are never clean. There's always something around, dirt, rubber dust, rubber chunks, carbon from exhausts, brake dust, and assorted other nasties. Then it's worse if it rains. :)

Weathering boxcars was the reason I first bought an airbrush, and I think about doing it to slot cars all the time. I've only done it once, and that was a Porsche 962. The big reason I wanted to do it was to dirty up the area of the body where the exhausts come out. I didn't do the spray because they don't make the paints I used to use on RR stuff anymore. What did you use for that road spray look?

I used a Floquil railroad color you might be familiar with called grime. I use it to make exhaust stains on my WWII model planes and to grime up my HO steam locomotives. Thinned it about 50% before airbrushing.

I thought they stopped making Floquil. That's the stuff I was talking about that I used to use. I had a set of grime, dirt, rust, grimy black, and dust.

Floquil is alive and well. You need to vising a model railroad shop to find it, though. I use their Weathered Black for model tires almost exclusively. They also do some other neat shades like Concrete that are good for all sorts of things.

Scott

Speaking as a fellow model railroader, I support weathering of models which should
have it. There's where you need to use discretion. A street car would most likely be
well kept and would be show room shiny. A race car which was in a sprint race or
other short race on asphalt would be mostly clean. A dirt car would be very grubby.
Obviously, photos of the real car are always helpful.

Very sharp, takes detail to the next level.

One of our guys did this with a Ferrari 512 CL. He weathered the whole car, but left the rear decklid shiny, as if the car had just gone into the pits and had a new piece of bodywork put on. Cool idea, so much you can do with weathering...

Yes it does look good as a scale model.

But some of us strive for, and will never achieve the beauty of your models before the weathering,Bob.

To get nearly there, and then spray crap all over them would just be too painful!

David.

I'm starting to feel kinda stupid. When I was told that I couldn't buy R1 Dio Sol anymore, I put all my RR paint away rather than have to replace hundreds of $ worth of paint and solvent. If any of it is still any good, can the old paints be used with the new thinner?

You need to be very brave and very good at executing to take that pristine car out of the box and smudge dirt on it!!

I have done it on several cars and really like the effect too!!

Your work is the best I have seen and out shines (guess out dulls) any attempts I have made!!

Dundee Denny

Really, really great job, Bob! I agree with the weathering as a former model RR guy...but I just claim my pristine cars are at the start of the race ;)