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Tiny Motors has a tire just for curring this problem and dragging spur gear with nearly all Monovell Vintage Nascars.

Yes, they do this for sure. I ground the magnet box right off and filled it with styrene card, but I run my car on wood (no magnets).

Like so:



You can go crazy with the mods on these. I run a Pioneer motor, Slot.It axles, guide, bushings, and gears, and SCC wheels. Not much Monogram left in it except for the body, interior, and chassis (each of which has been modified somehow). My car runs really well now but not cheap by any means. This is what it looks like now:



So low that I can't fit the exhausts between the body and the track any more!

I run mine down in the weeds & again like said above not much Monogram left.
In fact just the body ... the chassis is a sliced & dised Ninco Cobra with NC-2 motor & my own Cool Wheels.

Just my 2 cents worth ... J Y D

I have been resisting buying the Revogram Nascars until recently. I always had something higher up on my limited slot car list. I knew if I took the plunge, that I would have to put time into it and maybe even money to make it run well on my track. Of course one car wouldn't be enough. I would have to work over a whole fleet. From reading the enthusiastic comments about them, I finally decided to take that plunge when the recent Petty Plymouth came out. As I expected, she didn't run to well on my wood track OTB. so I proceeded to true the tires, file the mounting flanges on the chassis and remove material all of the way around the chassis to allow float. I put her on the track and found much improvement but she still had a considerable amount of wheel hop. Bushing slop no doubt.The super glue trick is in order. I ordered a set of Paul Gage tires and pledged to wait until the new tires arrived before trying to super glue the bushings. I thought that I might raise the axle to lower the rear of the car and wanted to keep the bushings free until the lowering is done. I decided to remove the magnet box which I did with a hack saw blade. I was considering what to do with the hole that remained when I came upon an idea. I have plenty of ground clearance why not try gluing a strip of brass on the bottom of the pan. Here is the result.

It made a huge improvement. The car is very stable in a slide with very little roll tendency. The extra weight molified the sloppy bushing issue similar to how the magnetic downforce does. I mean this car is heavy! She's a little slower out of the corners but she flat out slides smoothly going in. Worth the trade off IMHO. Maybe going down a tooth on the pinion will rectify the extra weight. She still has more ground clearence than it had with the original magnet box in place. I no longer think that lowering the car is necessary.

I am pleasantly surprised how well the car now runs with the stock tires still on the car. Paul Gages tires come in pairs. Maybe I ought to buy another of these cars to go with the extra set of tires.

Mike

Good stuff guys!

Here is what excites me:


Thanks to them I can create these USAC hammers petty easily.

BTW, my Petty Plymouth is under the knife now getting "the treatment"

M10 is the Maxtracc for this wheel.

It also fits the Pioneer Bullitt Mustang and Chargers.

Some great ideas on the forum for these as always. I really like the idea of the brass plate - very nice way to get some weight and balance on these beasts.

Mine retired from racing and went out on the street!

I noticed this problem with the Fairlane a while back but did not notice whether the chassis was bowed by the windows or interior.I just cut the magnet pod and replaced it with a thin piece of sheet styrene and put the magnet on top of that. This is why I wasn't very enthusiastic about the new releases. We don't have enough interest around here in classic NASCAR to warrant buying a car that needs major modification from the gitgo.