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Back on Jan 22 before the hack took it down some of us were discussing Revellogram Lola T-70s and some of their other offerings.
ModelerBob asked about repairing the axle bushings and then I jumped in because I wanted to replace mine.
turns out Harry had done a DIY on this subject but unless I'm missing it again, well it's gone too.
Too bad because in my efforts to make this car work with our no-mag Sidewinder Classics I have found a couple things that were not in the article.
(Any brand plastic classic SW body & chassis, 60's & 70's with Scaly 8146 motors and Supergrip tires. anything else goes, just don't molest the body.)
Originally I thought that the spur gear was 19mm... Not so, it is about 19.25mm. And yes, the pinion is 7.5mm.
Looking far and wide I found that MRSLOTCAR.CA, Aka,Ernie Mossetti of Eurosport (and everything else) slotcar fame, makes 7.5mm pinions for 2mm motor shafts in 12, 13 and 14t. (#s MR4512 > MR4514). This is cool because now there are interchangeable metal gears however you still have to move the motor back to the axle just a little bit to get a good mesh with a standard 19mm spur. I wound up taking about 1/64th or so off the back of the motor saddle on the gear side and then (like Bob's bushings) built up the front side with three layers of CA glue and let that dry for a tight snap in motor mount that does'nt need to be glued in.
I'm not quite done, the left rear bushing sits too far back in the chassis, meaning that the axle is not perpendicular to the guide flag. (!!! really?!)
Guess I'll get out my handy, dandy SCC bushing tool kit and properly mount the axle...
I wonder if a NSR chassis will fit under this purty thang?

Harry do you think the same modifications will work on the Monogram McLaren as well ?

Richard

Honestly I don't know sir. I have a pair of those and have not got around to messing with them. I like the cars ok, just sort of fell behind as some do.

Just might need to put these on the new list :)

Here's my repaint of a repaint of my R/M Lola with a HRS-2 chassis and SCC CB design rims.




And before anyone comments it is a fantasy paint scheme of how I imagine I would have had my Lola painted had I been a rich playboy racecar driver in the mid 1960's

"And before anyone comments it is a fantasy paint scheme of how I imagine I would have had my Lola painted had I been a rich playboy racecar driver in the mid 1960's"

That is my attitude completely. I don't buy cars because of their racing history (except one). I buy them as if I were a "rich playboy" so if I want to paint a car, I won't hesitate. Though most of the original liveries are fine. (Finding the time is another matter altogether.) Both of the Lolas in this piece are beautiful cars.

You already posted this once. Please stop repeating everything.

On the fantasy livery front . . . . .

I don't fantasize about being a rich playboy. My motivation is a bit more practical. Most of the time when a company introduces a new car, it comes out with a limited number of liveries for that particular. When you have a club with 10 or so members, it sometimes works out that a particular car has an advantage in a certain category. Rather then trying to distinguish my car from the others on the track, I find that coming up with my own racing livery just makes it easier to avoid that mistaken identity that happens far too often during the heat of battle.

Of course I consider myself a racer first when it comes to the myriad of facets that are available in the hobby of slot cars.

Your opinion may vary and that is very important to you as well.

Ok, well...I tried.

Bob I really like your car with the Slot-it chassis. I got so frustrated with the stock frame and all the problems I've had with trying to make it competitive with the other sidewinders that I ordered one. We'll see, I've got a lot of time and a few bucks for special pinions invested in this so I'm going to make one more attempt before I give up completely. My chassis cracked the first time I took the motor out at the rear corner of the motor box. I epoxyed it but it's so thin and weak there that there's not much to glue to. I'm gettin ready to do the "rebar and concrete" treatment (piano wire and metal filled epoxy).
If it works and this thing runs well I'll probably pick up another $20 complete body (what a deal!) and mount it on the Slot-it frame.
Been wanting to try one in our Sidewinder class anyway.