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Try using a slice of old 3/32nd axle and a axle stop collar that SCC has.



I have done this and it works great.

Hey Steelers Boy!

The CB Design wheels are made to fit perfectly on Slot-it brand axles and the tolerances are very, very good.
So let's take Harry's excellent suggestion a little farther...
Use the axle collar he recommends on cut down Slot-it axles and since our new Fly Classic TNG (The Next Generation) allows almost anything on the front axle, add in bushings or bearings on the uprights to get more control of the axle and also some nice, slippery (nylon?) shims on each side of the bearing.
Since we now allow add-on front uprights you could even fabricate an entire new upright system with the bearings. SCC may even have such an animal.
I quit using the stubs because the stock uprights allow too much up and down movement and no ride height adjustment.

The best stubby set up I've ever seen is on the Avant Mirage. I'll post a picture as soon as I can find it.

Here's the best procedure we have ever had for Fly: nope.

I guess I misunderstood something about our move here. I thought I could link to an excellent article from the past, but nothing seems to work... If one of you moderators is looking over my shoulder here, the thing I'm trying to link us to is Slotpoor's "Fix that Fly" article. There's just nothing better.

Well, I thought I had a picture but I had to make another one.
Here's how Avant did it. This works very well as far as being adjustable not only for ride height but for camber too. It does allow .010" to .020" slop front to rear but that didn't seem to be a problem.
I backed the top screws all the way up and turned the bottom one in until the axle was at the top in both uprights on each side and then backed both bottoms off a half a turn.
At that point the ride height was good for Steve's track and so I dialed in just a little negative camber by turning in the two top inner screws about a 1/4 turn. That set up worked real well. I haven't tried it at any of our other tracks but it's pretty easy to adjust. Roger could probably carve something out of aluminum for you that would work on the Fly chassis.



You still will not beat my GT-40... :naughty:

Thanks, Harry. That's still the only way for some of the front motor Flys.

You can follow Harry's method, and replace the plastic stub axles with metal ones, but that means replacing the wheels as well.

I had used modified stainless steel rivets, but there are metal stub axles available from Avant Slot that are much better (and far easier to use).

The important thing to watch for is getting the two holders drilled to match each other's location and orientation. Try a long drill bit with a tapered point, and go slow.

I tried using the brass inserts and lined them up with a drill blank and that worked well. Slotpoor's article has all the goodies in it, motor, fixing gears, weight distribution, body rub problems, all kinds of stuff. It came from our rules which allow only tire swaps, the rest has to be stock, but tuned. We had a ball with those Marcos, Viper, and Lister Storm cars after that, but the best was the Lola T70s. There must have been a couple dozen of them running around, all liveries and some fantasies, too. Not front motor, so no need for stub axles, and tuned properly, they will scream around the track.

Another method is what I've done: use the Fly front wheels if they are in good, round shape and put a 3/32 axle through the stock location mounts. I usually don't sleeve mine and they've all lasted fine. Use SCC insert wheels on the back and cut the original back wheels down to use as inserts for them. Get the slot.it axle and gear for the rear axle and you'll only have to buy half the parts.

Yep. That would have been easier (and way smoother), but for us, the rule was stock wheels only, so things got a bit fiddly, then Rod came up with his article and everything just took off. I should have mentioned that for the Lolas, the lack of need for stub axles makes for an easy axle insertion, also drill blank.

I like to use TSRF front axles cut in half with the circlip inside with a washer, then a setscrew wheel... Trim the axle to length, good to go. Even better with the brass collar...