2 new car class builds for my track

[cantstopnow]

As stated in another post, I was just getting tired of trying to get my monogram classic nascars and my scalextric trans-ams to run the way I wanted. At my local hobby shop I got a good price on some slot-it HRS chassies. So i took my scally mustang and camaro and went to work. Carved out the wheelwells, removed the glass except for the windshield, no bumbers and other stuff youd see at your local short track. Not sure how I will do the interior yet as there is not much room left. I'll have to get HRS 2 chassies for the monograms do to long wheelbases. Will post pics soon, have to replace harddrive on my good computer..LOL.

John W.

[dreinecke]

John,

A number of folks have been able to get these classes both running on their wood tracks. Before you spend a ton of money on the HRS2, how about you send Harry or myself one of each of your cars and let us tune it. You'll save some money and hopefully be happier with the results.

Let us know if you want to give that a whirl.

[Florida_Slotter]

John,

Another solution - one that is much cheaper to implement over the HRS or HRS2 chassis is this:





Material cost is about $3.00 and it is not hard to build. I am using all the stock Revell-Monogram parts. The gear mesh has no sound to it and the car handles like it's on rails.

[Dangermouse]

Marty

The chassis looks great, I think I could make that.
How do you determine the height for the axle?

What gauge is the wire? Have you posted a set of build instructions in another thread?

cheers
David

[HRWJim]

That is a great looking chassis but like David said there are ways to make these cars run. Look up Harry's tuning tips and give them a try. Jim

[Florida_Slotter]

David,

No, I am gathering the photos for the article I intend to start writing for posting here on HRW.

Basically the main rails are a piece of 1/16 piano wire bent into a "U" shape. The rear most part of the "U" is bent up to mount the 7/32 brass tubing that holds the rear bushings / bearings.

To get the correct ride height, I just some discs that are the outside diameter of the rear wheels I'm going to use. I set the main rails on a piece of material that is equal to how much clearance I want to have under the chassis. Same with the front axle tube. The front of the chassis has the 'ears' bent out so I can solder a piece of .016 brass sheet to them and use the stock body mounting screws in the front. In the rear I'm going to bend some wire and use some .016 brass sheet to do the same.

Hopefully I can get caught up with all the other projects I have going on at this time and get this posted soon.

I hope this helps.

[SpeedyNH]

that looks like some of mine from the 60's.
but Marty, you sure do some pristine work.
speedy

[J Y D]

I really like the brass chassis ... how are you mounting the bodys?

If you want to slice & dice the Ninco Cobra chassis works great & is pretty easy to do.











These are all sitting on this chassis



Hope it helps ... J Y D

[cantstopnow]

Thanks for the pics of the brass chassie. I guess I should have been more clear what I mean by run the way that I wanted. At heart I am a speed freak. I like my cars to run fast. My fave class to run is run what you brung. Not so wild about box stock racing. Dave, I have done alot of tuning to the monograms. I have done all of Harrys tuning plus laid down the motor and other stuff. There running slot it motors, gears, axles, rims. NSR tires. They run alot better than they did stock. Pretty much the same for the scallys. I just do not see them running with slot-its or NSRs on the stock chassies. I also like the way I can change motor lay out with the HRS chassie. All I am doing at this point is buying the HRS starter kits and moving the hard parts over to it. They will rum mostly on wood tracks. Some how I see most of my scallys and monograms going this rout. Going to have to see about building some brass chassies, looks like some fun....

Slot On, John W