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Had this Top Slot resin body of the Riley & Scott Mk 3 WSC for ages so with the hybrid chassis builds working out, I'm going to give this a shot.



Chassis metal components cut and prepped so on to soldering.

Dan

This is a car I'm not familiar with, what era is it from? Since you cited World Sportscar Championship I assume it ran at Le Mans and in similar races.

The WSC cars ran in the early 90s after the Group C cars were forcibly retired. They were flat bottom open cockpit cars. The Ferrari 333SP was a factory effort. The R&S MkIII was a leading privateer. Scalextric also makes a Cadillac WSC, and there is a Fly Joest Porsche WSC-95 (incidentally derived from the Jaguar XJR-14).

WSC cars weren't real popular, and the GT-1cars grew to be more popular in the late 90s.

Not enough motor/body clearance for my liking, so going to my adjust-o-wheelbase slimline hybid chassis with the defunct Devised Designs super slimline motor pod.



Dan

Chassis's rolling and body's mounted, single post front and back.









Should be powered soon for a test run.

Dan

Managed to graft on a Fly Porsche Joest wing to the motor pod's rear.







Works for me.

Test run revealed good performance. Got a matching fastest lap with a Slot It Alfa 33, a very good car on my wood track.

Don't have a Policar slimcan as suggested but the Scalextric Sport 25K green can with a Slot It 9t pinion and 28t crown worked out fine with good acceleration and decent braking.

Dan

Dan - Interesting car, pretty succeful in its day (Thanks Chappyman66 and Wikipedia after) with a long model run and American made. :flags-waveusa:

Dan, what brand and spec soldering iron, solder, and flux do you use? Looks like you have a good system in place and my Nerf team members have been asking about options.

Also, what’s your body post epoxy of choice? :text-thankyouyellow:

JT

@ JT - I use a generic variable voltage iron from Princess Auto in Canada, a store similar to Harbour Freight in the USA. Solder's regular 60/40. The key to better soldering for me was your recommendation of Lucky Bob's liquid acid flux. Made all the difference. I secure body posts to plastic and resin bodies with JB Weld JB Kwik two-part epoxy that sets pretty quick.

Done!

Went with a phantom livery, Camel, my favorite. Body's painted with Tamiya TS34 Camel Yellow, TS15 Blue and TS51 Racing Blue.







Driver figure head is the wrong era, but it's mounted on a pin so can be changed easily.

Worked out really well on the performance and modelling front.

Dan

Nice work, Dan!
Thanks for the soldering and epoxy details, too. (I must say I am a bit disappointed that the “pinhead” driver isn’t looking at the camera ...


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Well done! Very impressive.