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Got my attention. I've got a 32 coupe build swirling in my head, so I'll be watching your progress closely. If your awd car is an indication, this'll be interesting.

Thanks for sharing.

Dan

Basic chassis yet elegant in its simplicity. It will be fun watching your build.
Thanks

Yep those Lindberg kits are more 1/35 scale
I have the 46 ford kit so will watch with interest

"...resembles what a legend coupe could look like..."
Now that is a slick idea of how to put one of those undersized bodies to use!
Looking forward to additional updates!
:D

Very nice work so far. Your chassis designs are well thought out. My hats off to you working with this body, looks like you have plan that working.

That looks pretty neat. I like the rear bushing mounts :text-bravo:
Kinda looks like it'd make a beat AA/Altered :auto-checkeredflag:

Your chassis work is fun to watch come together. The rear bulkhead alone is some fine art by itself.

Hi Harry, I did the more plate like that as it is easier then folding and trying to get the holes lined up, no one down under stocks motor brackets.
Hopefully I'll get more done tomorrow..........

Dave, when you have time, can you tell us how thick the brass sheet is that you used for the centersection? It appears to be in the .035"-.040" (1mm) range from your photos. Do you plan to use the same material for your pans? I too like your motor plate/rear axle arrangement & plan to save some of its photos for a future build. Thanks.

Hi Bill, both of the brass plates are .75/.8mm depending how tuff ya squeze on the calipers. I do plan to use the same thickness for the pans.
I didn't use thinner brass as I don't want to have to fix anything or use thicker as that would make it all too heavy.
Using the 3/32 OD square brass on the sides makes it so easy to drill holes to hold the bent brass rod that make the axle bush uprights.
You can also fit wire inside the square brass and extend that forward to be flex rails or easier still, extend the square right forward like in this Showdown car
http://homeracingworld.us/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=12922
That way you can drill more holes and use them to create a pivot point for a drop arm if required.

ShotgunDave, they do seem to run better when you straighten them out & make them flat. <LOL> Your work is topline quality too. You don't have anything to worry about.

.......................You're puttin' me to shame...........................

Dave, to benefit those of us who envy your workmanship, could you please tell us what you use for a soldering iron & flux on your chassis joints. For years, I've used an old 50 watt Ungar iron (with newer tips) & Stay Clean liquid acid flux on all brass-to-brass, steel-to-brass, & steel-to-steel joints, except electrical connections.