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I've finally started on my track build. I settled on a tri-oval. I'll go through and let you know all the decisions I've made on various aspects of the track. A couple things are still up in the air, so any feedback you have would be appreciated. Visions of use: adults as well as 7&8 year old son and their friends.

Track: 4 Lane Tri-oval - 19 inches wide
Length: approx. 32 ft. total; Long straight: 8ft.; Short straights: 4ft each; Turns approx 3ft radius
Power Supply: Adjustable. Have a friend who has a bunch of computer power supplies. Should I take him up on his offer of these. If so, do i use one per lane? How would I best make the lanes voltage adjustable? Or should I just suck it up and buy an adjustable power supply?
Track Surface: Flat paint and flat surface
Power to Cars: Copper Tape
Connect to Controller: XLR Connections
Controllers: Probably 45 ohm Parmas
Cars: Probably RTR cars. Possibly some Sprints Plus or the like in the future. Regardless, due to track size, don't need motors that are too hot.
Timing & Scoring Hardware: Will have the S/F line on the 8ft section. Trying to decide method. Dead Strip? I'm not sure I fully understand the lengths needed to cut out and that sort of thing. Seems like this could be the best way to do it, but would the track be too small for this method? Other way would be to possibly use the slotted sensors that are referred to in the Race Coordinator program.
Looking at using an arduino board. A friend has one that I can borrow to see how it works. Looks like a good option. Any word on software for a Raspberry Pi?
Timing & Scoring Software: Looking to use RC. We got a few of the Kindles for cheap at Christmas. I'm looking forward to seeing if I can set up the software to output information to the web and have one Kindle at each driver station to show details for their lane in addition to the big output.

I think that's most all of the details on the track. Let me know if you have any other questions or comments.

Here are a few pictures:

Track laid out on the garage floor


Can't do any more cutting and/or routing for a few days so I figure I'd go ahead and paint the bottom of the track.

You may notice that I made my first mistake(s). I cut the curves too thin. Luckily I still have the inside, so I'll I'll be making repairs on that to make it 19in in the curves as well. The small curve in between the two small straights still needs to be cut. I plan on having the drivers stations on each end of the small straights.

Not sure on the timing approach, never needed anything like that.

Good old Trackmate is my choice.

Yep agree with Harry, get a variable power supply, trackmate lap counting system and forget the xlr plugs, all you need are the three posts and alligator clips. OR
If your concerned the kids will hook it up wrong , then use normal 3 pronged plugs and receptacles.
You cant get that wrong and its easy to set up.
Parma 45s are fine for what you have planned. You can always upgrade later.
Bob

If you are not worried about standardization such as having outsiders coming in to race or you going to other tracks to race, trailer supplies and many auto stores carry a generic three prong flat plug, They are cheap, easy to wire and work as well as any other plug n'play connector. Or you can use them as I do to connect my Parma controllers on the Big D oval used for newbies. The track has a standard hookup for controllers with alligator clips but I found when I took this portable track to community events, excited kids kept knocking the alligator clips off. AS a cure, I connected one side of the flat connector to the studs on the track using standard wire connectors held onto the stud by a nut. The other half was hard wired to the Parma controller. The connector studs (#6 bolts) are still there if someone wants to connect any standard three alligator equipped controller. The Parma controllers used for the kids however are connected by the flat plug.

Spaceshoes, I've used the sensors embedded in the slot before; they work OK but a dead strip would be better. I have experience in making sensor cables so if you need help in this area, I would be glad to come down and help out. The track is looking good so far. You didn't mention your lane spacing.

Lane spacing will be around 3 3/4. I think I've about decided on dead strips for timing. Thanks for the offer kemtron, I'll see how it goes.

Great looking track!!!

Actually I am suggesting that, it is a great solution to stop incorrect hook ups, and as a safety I just used normal wire conduit to keep the controllers at the track. It works great and the controllers cant disappear. The controllers wont fit through the conduit piece and neither will the plugs.
I just used a piece of conduit about 3 or 4 inches long attached to the side of the hook up panel.
Bob

Here is an article on dead strips: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzLR4 ... GJkSTVEMkE
All of the 1/32nd tracks that I have raced on in the past five years or so have had XLR jacks or both XLR jacks and screw post connections. If you use regular electrical plugs someone might plug a cotnroller into a wall outlet.

I hope they dont do that in the UK Rich as they have been using reqular plugs for years and they
go into 240v over there..
Certainly add a bit of a light show if they did.
Bob

Thanks for the suggestion on the power supply. I like the looks of that. Also, thanks for the article on the dead strip. I like the looks of the in-line dead strip. Leaves the option open for the possibility of running a different direction. i think I'll stick with the XLR hookup. Is there a "standard" for that?

I've gotten some work done. Underneath for the curve was slow, but finally got it done. Was a bit discouraged when working last night. I made a mistake and was too tired and sore to mess with it. With some rest, I realized it was an easy fix tonight and got three of the sections up on the legs. Its exciting to see the progress I've made with it this week.




I'll let you know when it opens Kemtron!