Adamowicz Porsche 911S

[Audi1]

I'm getting ready to do a 1/32 car based on Adamowicz's TransAm Porsche 911s, #7. I think it's a nice looking car and since it was the 1968 under 2 L TransAm champion, it has some appeal from that standpoint, too. I plan to run the car at our local track in the TransAm class and with a Scaley motor installed to level the playing field, I have a green light to run this car once it's completed.

Here's a link to some pics of the car:

http://www.a2zracer.com/page14.html

And one pic of the rear:

http://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/upl ... Rear_1.jpg


The #7 car has the rear bumper cut away, like most of the 911S's that ran TransAm and has some extended trumpet-style exhaust pipes either sticking straight back or angled up ala Jaguar's XKE model.

My challenge is to find a means to fabricate these exhaust pipes, since, to me, they really add a lot to the look of the car. I'd also like to have a something in the back that looks like the rear end of a Porsche flat 6 motor. I have a Fly Porsche 917k that has some rear engine detail and I'm toying with using that (if I can source just the motor piece; not sure about that...).

Fly makes a version of this car. The livery is mostly correct, but the body is an "SC" body, so that removes a lot of the authenticity that I'm trying to create. I'm not a "make work" person, but I now plan to start with the MRRC Porsche 911 and do a paint/decal on it.

Any help that you can provide on both the exhaust pipes and the motor would be greatly appreciated.

Audi1

[buspor63]

It's MRRC or Racer that do the proper earlier 911, but even those may be the later 1969 cars with small rear wheel flares. The U2L should be a pre '69 short wheel base car, the torsion bar cap covers would be right at the edge of the rear wheel arch. The lower cam cover is what you see, in 1:1 it's no more than a flat rectangle with a couple of ribs. The exhaust would just be any sort of three tube curved header going into some straight pipes. You could try to replicate the megaphone, but in 1:1 it flared from about 2'' to 4" in about 24".

[buspor63]

Additionally, that big ugly thing behind the right rear tire is the oil tank. I wonder why did they ever race the car without the rear bumper?

[gascarnut]

Arii also make a nice static kit for this car.

My guess about the lack of rear end bodywork and bumper is to get extra cooling as much as to reduce weight.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

[PeteN95]

I'm doing this car also using the Arii kit, but am still looking for decals? If anybody has a source, I would appreciate it.

[Audi1]

Thanks for the feedback. I received a nice surprise today.

I'm doing this off the MRRC 911S and in addition to ordering the car (which comes in silver with a #4 roundel on it and some reference to a racing organization in Pittsburg, PA), I also ordered two 911S bodies; which you can get from MRRC. To my surprise, they came without the rear bumper! The bumper is in the parts bag that accompanies the body. So, my Dremel can sit this one out while I work on what the first steps of this build should be.

I'm primarily interested in racing this car, so there may be some interesting things going on under the body................

Audi1

[studioRS]

Hi, my first posting here hoping to help out Audi1 on this project.

@buspor63, @ShotgunDave - The real reason for the removed rear bumper was to swap gear sets, advantage to beat the big bore group, which did work. I'm sure there was the added benefit of lightened rear end too.

http://www.a2zracer.com/page13.html


"This picture depicts preparing for one of my jobs of removing the engine for gear changes.
We did this quite often on a weekend, with a 2 liter engine in Trans Am against the big bore guys, we always got the just right split in gears. The idea was to beat as many of the Big Bore cars as possible.
Our oil lines were quick disconnect to keep the oil in the dry sump along with quick electrical cannon plug that disconnected all wiring with one twist of the wrist.
I was able to remove the engine and trans in about 20 minutes, it became quite a show during the Trans Am season."

[studioRS]

[studioRS]

[Audi1]

Happy New Year!

bibster, that is a great idea. I'll be my local art store looking, tomorrow. I'll need a couple that are small enough to work at 1/32 scale. I'm thinking small diameter plastic tubing (Plastruct), properly angled, going into the paintbrush trumpets................

I'm really not set up to do body painting. I've read several threads on this forum about painting bodies, which are very helpful, but I'm sort of at the spray can stage at this point, which is probably not going to get me where I want/need to be. I'm also very uncertain that I can find a can with paint that matches the Adamowicz car. We'll see....

Separately, we run the "Hangover 200" event at my local track today and, as of this posting, I am in absolutely perfect physical shape for that event..............

Audi1

[Jesla]

You can get just as good a finish from a Rattle Can as most can do with an air brush.
Just read and follow the directions on the can. If you don't like the way it came out
out then strip it and do it again. I re-did one car four times before I got what I wanted.

This is a Rattle Can paint job....



As is this....



and this...

[Audi1]

Thanks Jesla,

How to you do the detail around the windshield and windows; for example the silver outline on the red Mustang GT 350? This is a challenge that I know I will face after painting the body color on the #7 car. Is it done freehand or do you mask if off and re-spray?

Audi1

[Jesla]

I use a silver paint pen, you may have to trim the tip. Take your time.
Also I clear coat before the silver, it makes fixing mistakes easier, and
final clear coat after the silver and decals.

[studioRS]

[PeteN95]