Vintage Scaley Repaint Help

[chappyman66]

I have come into a small group of vintage Scaley cars with the "tupperware" bodies and snap in motors.
Are the rattlecan plastic primers good enough to give a basecoat on these cars?

[Cobra Freak]

If you ask 10 painters the same question, you'll get 10 answers :lol: If the detail on these older shells in coarse it probably won't matter, and I would say yes. What I don't like about rattle cans is that they are either on or off. I prefer the finer control an airbrush gives me, and I can lay down a thin coat that covers but does not obscure detail. :ugeek: but then, I'm fussy about painting!

[waaytoomuchintothis]

If you use Tamiya Fine Primer, its hard to cover up a detail. It just almost won't do it.

[Florida_Slotter]

[Cobra Freak]

Well, in the worst case you'll get 10 answers four arguements and a fist fight! :mrgreen:

[dreinecke]

I see your fist fight and raise you to a duel!

The tupperware cars can be difficult to get adhesion on. I would use a 0000 steel wool to rough the body carefully and then prime. That'll give it something to bite into.

As for paints, I love air brushes, but always use automotive paints in a rattle can. Most of the Duplicolors go on light enough that hiding trim and details isn't a problem.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Dave's right about the Duplicolor spray. I don't like using 1:1 paints for models because the pigment is too big and fills the details, but Duplicolor is significantly different. The pigment size is different for different colors, and some of them are very much like model paints at a bargain price. The Engine Enamel series has a low-gloss black that is perfect for convertible and vinyl tops. I used Duplicolor Engine Enamel to find a rare color for a Hudson, and the pigment was enormous. It was like I dipped the car in rubber. Lost so much detail it looked like a bad vac-formed body. You just have to experiment.

[chappyman66]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input.