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I am jumping into some scratchbuilding. A few years back, I did some major cut jobs on broken chassis to put them under plastic kits, and I did a couple of "Mostly scratchbuilt" chassis for 1/24 cars. Now, I am going to try brass and wire for 1/32 scale kits again. I have a stack of cars I bought used that have really thrashed chassis, so I will start with them for practice subjects.

When I last did mechanical soldering. (RC cars, planes and Control Line airplanes) We used 60/40 for almost everything, and silver solder for high strength parts. Now all of the solder in any local store around here is lead free. I think I can still mail order standard rosin core and acid cores in different diameters, but Cathie thinks I should solder without lead, as the rug rats will be playing with the cars occasionally.. I still have a bit of rosin core squirreled away, but if I can avoid the lead, it might not be a bad idea. Does the lead free stuff even work? How is the melting point? How much hotter do I have to get it? Is it as strong as lead? Does it adhere as well? How does it work with the fluxes we use? Will it work with the same tips I use with lead? Do I tin the same way? Any techniques I have to relearn?

I have never scratchbuilt a chassis before, but I have done a lot of soldering on my slot cars and my tracks. I also assembled many guitars, a couple of amps and many flying things over the years. I have the basics of soldering down, but have never used the new stuff. I imagine we will all have to learn it if we are going to continue this hobby, as I can't imagine regular solder will be available forever.

Thanks in advance for the ideas.

I use 60/40 exclusively. It's not too hard, it's not too soft. Goldilocks would call it "Just Right!"

There are some folks out there using silver solder to build chassis. That's their business.

My mind says that the 60/40 resin core solder that is available from Radio Shack is a good supplier. They are a U.S. wide company and have good solder.

When I visit the commercial raceways, I have a journal that I keep. I write down such things as when a car hits the wall and the solder joint breaks. Funny thing, other than the time I hooked my controller up wrong prior to the start of the race and when the race started I had jumped into the lead, went through the banked turn heading for the Deadman where I soon realized my error. I did break a solder joint that day. So, while not 100% perfect, I use it all the time.

M_Delaneyfan - I am very glad to hear that you are joining the ranks of the "build it yourself". If you have any questions or need any ideas, you know how to contact me! Let us all know how it's working out for you.

" I still use 60/40 I believe." Yes you do. That is what comes off my rolls.

"I use 60/40 exclusively. It's not too hard, it's not too soft. Goldilocks would call it "Just Right!""

Yes sir, we do too. Everyone has different taste/methods. But 60/40 works for me.

Thanks guys, 60/40 it will be! I'll wait until I get a few chassis under my belt before I start trying ti reinvent the wheel. If I prepare my music wire with acid flux, I should still be able to use Rosin Core solder with no problems.

Thanks for the advice,
Dave

(Now I just have to find a simple plan for my first one.)

Wait....Dave Manley? I knew a Dave Manley, long ago. Ever been to Montana?

Radio shack has a very nice 2% silver solder that works very well for brass/wire frames. It flows nearly as well as 60/40, but is quite a bit stronger. It is available in .022" and .015" diameters, has a rosin core. It's all I use and I think I probably use more than most! The catalog # for the .022" size is 64-013.

I doubt that the amount of lead in the solder of a typical 1/32 frame will have any kind of harmful effect on a rugrat!

After I had built my 400th 1/24 scale retro frame, I asked my doctor to order a blood test for lead, and it came back clean.

The big deal is to use a fan of some sort to move the fumes generated while soldering so you don't inhale them. I have an Inland fune extractor with a carbon filter, they are not expensive. The side benefit is to get the extractor fan to blow onto the soldering iron tip while it is not in use, it reduces the amount of oxidation on the tip significantly.

Silver solder only user here.