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Good on you! Looks good. It's remarkably satisfying when you first watch it move on the track under its own power.

Looks great....and to paraphrase old Yoda: "Do or Do Not, that is all that matters".

On the wiring, on a "coventional" inline it should be right pick up to right motor lead.

Awaiting further progress! :D

Polarity is very important. Electronic controllers are ruined by connecting to the wrong polarity and must be rebuilt.

Good looking machine! Like the roof removed.

This is so kewl looking. Nice job on the chassis, it's so simple.
Are you planning a race look like one of these outlaws?


The 356 is yanking on my to build list too, wow didn't know you crafted this up too Dave, schweet.

Hi Buspor;

There is a really simple way to see if your polarity is correct. Take a small rectangular 9 volt battery, hold it against the braid until contact is made and the engine turns. If the car is running in the right direction with the smaller pole to the right, then it is wired correctly. I test all my cars this way as I don't have a working track. You may have to pull the braid down so the battery can make contact without the flag stopping it.

Your 356 looks great.

Cheers,

Retro

Hi again:

I like the idea of a 356 proxy, but can't find any rules or registration page. I already have a Shotgun Dave body like yours, and it doesn't take me long to whip up a car, but I need info. Can anyone direct me to the pages.

Thanks,

Retro

Thanks for all the tips on polarity. I just want to make sure when I send the car out, it's race ready. My track is simple and I use Parma Econo's, if I want the car to go the other way, I just swap the +/- inputs.

StudioRS, that's the look I'm going for, but on more of a SCCA E Prod regional competitor look.... a little ratty..

Rettro, here's the link
http://homeracingworld.us/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5391

It really turned out well!

Looks good. And you have plenty of time, by the way.