I started scratch building 1:32 dirt modified cars for my oval 8 years ago using whatever materials I could get. Most are made from styrene, but many are made from PCB (both copper clad and the type with small holes in them), as well as brass plate.
All use the same design - a flat 2" by 4" section with a 1" wide by 1" long tongue at the front. I attach the guide holder (the stamped steel ones from Slick 7 are my favorites) to the front end of the tongue, run 2 pieces of styrene or brass channel the length of the 2"x4" rear section for the inline motor to go between, and then cut out rectangles near the back end of the plate for the rear wheel wells. I mount the motor in the space between the channels with hot glue, notch out sections of the channel to mount the rear axle bushings and glue them in place with JB Weld. A front axle tube is mounted in the same way. I do this all on a homemade jig so the axles are perpendicular to the center line of the chassis with a 3 1/4" wheelbase, and 1/16" ground clearance.
This model shows why the front section of the chassis is narrower than the rear - modifieds are open wheeled up front.
This might sound like a goofy way to build cars but I have about 60 of them now and they are wicked fast on my oval. The track speed record of 2.42 secs on the 4' x 14' oval is held by a car with a PCB (with holes) chassis that is both light and rigid. In 8 years only one car has needed repair after a trip to the floor. I can build 2 - 3 cars in a day for about $10. I make printed replica bodies out of thick photo paper folded over the chassis and held in place with screws or body pins along the side. I posted a bunch of pictures of my cars on HRW about 3 years ago but no longer have an ImageShack account for that purpose. They are very similar to the cars made by NY Modifieds with a different chassis design.
Definitely give PCB material a try, and consider using epoxy rather than solder. I have never had a JB Weld joint come apart.
Slothead
Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 9:46 am