Chassis building beginner set ?

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Keith, I ordered one of those cores. Looks very good. I can't wait for it to get here.

[Retro Racer 44]

[btaylor]

[demether]

Yeas, really cool. I found some in France (a bit mor expensive), apparently it's also used for jewelry. Really good idea. :text-goodpost:


I keep the info stored and I'll take it in a few months. Now it's track building time :lol:

[Ember]

I too am a Weller fella. Got an 80w that I've had for the last 25 years. But I also have a cheap 35w that I use for emergency repairs. Sometimes the big one gets a little cumbersome.

No fair. There is so much stuff that Amazon won't ship to Oz. :(

[dr fabio]

What flux are you using on the surfaces before soldering?

[demether]

How many watts would you suggest, for the soldering iron ?

thanks

[dr fabio]

Ive use a 60W temp controlled Weller with only a 2mm tip for the last 30 years with no problems at all. I used to use a similar flux to what youre using, called Bakers Flux. Contains Zinc chloride, ammonium chloride and hydrochloric acid like the one youre using. I found it to be too aggressive, especially if using piano wire. It would just rust the wire in no time. Ive been using phosphoric acid for the last 10 years and its just so much better that you wouldnt even bother comparing the two. Give it a try.

Ive gotten lazy in my latter years and just buy stainless steel prefabricated chassis from MJK engineering (local Aussie slot company). I however like to modify them to suit and using phosphoric acid I can solder stainless real easy. The solder flows like butter on hot corn.

[noddaz]

Now this has been a great series of answers to an age old question! Thank you all!!!

Scott

[demether]

I agree. In a few posts and days, you all saved me HUNDREDS of hours searching on internet for cryptic informations.

[bill from nh]

If you're just soldering brass to brass of brass to copper, a paste flux works fine. When you add any steel, such as piano wire & blue spring steel, into the equation, you need an acid flux. SS requires an acid flux that is comtatible with SS. Two that are, is Stay Clean & Oatey's #11 Liquid Flux. With any acid flux, you must afterwards clean your work well so rust doesn't form.

Tip heat recovery time can be more important than just an iron's wattage, especially if working with a lot of 1/16" & thicker brass. I like my old Ungar irons because they're well balanced & feel comfortable in my hands. If I need more heat, I got an 80W Weller, a 100W Inland, & 3 butane micro-torches.

[HomeRacingWorld]

For thin sheet plastic, instead of higher cost Evergreen or Plastruct, try using Garage Sale/Yard sale signs. These cost next to nothing and make excellent interior trays, body panels, even shims.

A deck of playing cards is also good material. I use it for most 1/32 interior trays and can be painted.

2 liter soda/water bottles are also handy. And keep those blister packs some motors/parts come in. They can make great windshields/glass.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

Take care when selecting soldering irons. I have a Wen iron that is over 50 years old and it heats faster and hotter than my Weller that is less than 10. The trouble is, control is done by unplugging it. Really. Buy new stuff that has more power than you think you will need, and keep a butane mini-torch handy. Bernzo-matic makes a great one. You can find them in kits with extra goodies sometimes.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 13035736:s

[noddaz]

[waaytoomuchintothis]

ALERT!

Do not follow the link to the Ebay heater core for a layout and pin tool. It goes to the wrong product. We're trying to get the right info now.