PCB Chassis

[dw5555]

I though I read somewhere where PCB board was being used to build a chassis but I can't find it. After driving my chassis for awhile I found that the plastic is warping in spots especially in the front where there is no room to run stringers along side the guide. I would like to try an alternative to styrene as the base.

Suggestions? No brass..needs to be the same as all my other cars..

Dave

[TsgtRet]

Check out Slot Car Outhouse, he uses copper clad, etchable PCB for his scratchbuild chassis with great success.

[bill from nh]

Chris Briggs, in upstate NY, has a article on his website for a PC board chassis he built. Here's the link : http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/id8.html

[dw5555]

Thx guys that helps..

Dave

[slothead]

I started scratch building 1:32 dirt modified cars for my oval 8 years ago using whatever materials I could get. Most are made from styrene, but many are made from PCB (both copper clad and the type with small holes in them), as well as brass plate.

All use the same design - a flat 2" by 4" section with a 1" wide by 1" long tongue at the front. I attach the guide holder (the stamped steel ones from Slick 7 are my favorites) to the front end of the tongue, run 2 pieces of styrene or brass channel the length of the 2"x4" rear section for the inline motor to go between, and then cut out rectangles near the back end of the plate for the rear wheel wells. I mount the motor in the space between the channels with hot glue, notch out sections of the channel to mount the rear axle bushings and glue them in place with JB Weld. A front axle tube is mounted in the same way. I do this all on a homemade jig so the axles are perpendicular to the center line of the chassis with a 3 1/4" wheelbase, and 1/16" ground clearance.

This model shows why the front section of the chassis is narrower than the rear - modifieds are open wheeled up front.


This might sound like a goofy way to build cars but I have about 60 of them now and they are wicked fast on my oval. The track speed record of 2.42 secs on the 4' x 14' oval is held by a car with a PCB (with holes) chassis that is both light and rigid. In 8 years only one car has needed repair after a trip to the floor. I can build 2 - 3 cars in a day for about $10. I make printed replica bodies out of thick photo paper folded over the chassis and held in place with screws or body pins along the side. I posted a bunch of pictures of my cars on HRW about 3 years ago but no longer have an ImageShack account for that purpose. They are very similar to the cars made by NY Modifieds with a different chassis design.

Definitely give PCB material a try, and consider using epoxy rather than solder. I have never had a JB Weld joint come apart.

Slothead

[bill from nh]

Slothead, your modified sitting there looks great! I'm sure your chassis is just as good as your body. :) There are still free image-hosting sites out there. Photobucket is but one of them.

[slothead]

Bill - that isn't one of my slot cars, it's a RPM static 1:25th scale model. I posted it to show why the tongue on a dirt modified chassis would be narrow in the front. Mine are 2" wide under the body, and 1" wide under the engine cowl.

My point is scratch built chassis using PCB material are easy and inexpensive.

I'll find a way to post more photos.

Slothead

[walker]

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[dw5555]

PCB ordered. Thank for all the replies..

Dave