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Not sure if I'm in the right section, but here we go. Running Lap Timer 2000 off an old laptop, like I've done in the not so recent past. I'm working off the printer port (25 pin) but I've completely lost confidence in my colour coding.
I keep testing the ports, and I get nothing. I tick the Lap Switching Logic and Track Mate Sensor Compatibility back and forth, after each failed test. It used to work; the port is fine, but I'm not so sure of the colours anymore.
When I Google stuff, I get variations of the colour code. I've always used #25 as ground, and #10, 11, or 12 to complete the circuit.

I've looked at the HELP section. Maybe I have a DB 25 cable and I'm setting it up as TrakMate Wiring. I don't know. Tried many configurations. Not getting a single beep except when I squeezed the cable sheathing in an attempt to test more wire colours. Go figure.

Thanks for any help on this.

You did not say what sort of sensors you were using. You implied that your setup had worked in the past. If you are doing a test by shorting the leads and do not register a count for any lane and you are using dead strips the printer port may be fried. Possibly the cable itself is defective. If none of the lanes work the ground is probably bad.
If you want to test the port it is best not to apply a dead short from common to another pin, use a 150 ohm resistor.
Just in case here is the wiring scheme: Pin 23 or 25 can be the common, pin 10 is lane 1, pin 11 is lane 2, pin 12 is lane 3 and pin 13 is lane 4.
You might also want to look at the program setup, you have to enter the port that you are using along with the type of sensor.

Thanks Rich,

Yes. I've just been shorting the two wires together. Printer port MUST be fried !!

Guess I should move on to the 9pin and test it properly. I know the wire #'s. the problem has been ascertaining the correct colour.

I use a dead strip, so maybe I should set it up and have a little more faith in that it will work. As I said, I've played with all the settings. Let ya know how it goes.

There is a whole thread on the old site concerning me cooking a parallel port by simply shorting the terminals without a resistor.

If you haven't been using a resistor, I'd be very afraid that this has happened - mine worked for a while, until the smell of burning appeared.

If your computer is old enough to have a parallel port, it may not be economic to get it repaired(unless you are able to do it yourself, of course).

I've seen PMCIA cards with parallel ports on them advertised on e-bay - this might be a solution; I just bought a cheap, nearly scrap old laptop - which works just fine (with resistors in the dead strip circuit this time!).

David.

You might want to take a look at this: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzLR42N ... =drive_web