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I have been wanting to try this, I have gotten super glue to break down in 90% alcohol

It should be mentioned that the reason for this technique is that the knurling is slightly larger than the rest of the axle on knurled axles, chiefly Carrera and Scalextric, but there are others. In order for the factory workers to slide bushings on the axle, the bushing's hole is slightly larger to accommodate the knurling. Then the plastic wheel is installed. Pull and axle set out and wiggle the bushing to see the slop. The slight amount of slop this creates can be bothersome sometimes, and that is why some cars with knurled axles don't handle well. I never have figured out how Carrera usually avoids the handling problem, but even the most smooth of these cars can be improved by this technique.

I`ve done this a few times myself with great results each time. Just don`t be skeered, and have your plan of attack ready as mentioned. I have steered away from this recently, and have been using a small "sharp" center punch. Slowly going around the inner/outer edge of the hole leaving small demples the closes up the opening. Works great on brass or plastic.

Good stuff Bibbs!

I hesitate to mention it but there are alternative methods of dealing with this, too. For example, the knurling can be reduced to remove and replace the bushings with better fitting ones, then the wheel is drilled out and an insert glued in. Then the wheel can be squarely aligned and pressed on the axle. Mark does something very similar as a repair procedure for plastic wheels.

The main thing is to get the axle slop out.

I use it on Scaley cars mainly. SCX and Pioneer don't need it, no knurling. Ninco... I usually finish up replacing the rear assembly in the long run.

The first time I tried it was rather nerve wracking. But I was amazed at the difference it made.

Will be doing it on my Carrera Cobra this afternoon. Looking forward to being able to take it for a proper test drive now that I have PG tyres to try on it. :dance:

One of the local guys here used this trick on one of my Monogram stockers once. It worked. He used the gap-filling type super glue

It also works well on Johnny Lightening Ho chassis that have a little too much slop just have to be very careful with the glue. Jim

After glueing, I roll the chassis back and forth till the glue sets. That way, I think the filler glue is all on the top and sides of the bushing and won't throw the ride height off. Also, I can closely watch the bushing, making sure it doesn't start to spin in the chassis. Once the glue is dry, I trim off the glue flash around the bushing so the axle gets some end play back. Carrera cars with motor pods are really easy to do.

Hey, this is very similar to my technique for gluing perfectly good axles to perfectly good bushings. You can learn more about it in my article: "Turning Slot Cars into Static Models for Track Decoration".

That's right. Name the fear. That's the way to overcome it...

Oh I can't wait to hear this... what did you do with a pinion to wreck a motor?

Before you answer, let me say I once tried to push a pinion on by hand and slid the commutator so tight against the rotor the shaft slid back and forth inside the case. When I took the can apart to shove it back together on the shaft, I accidentally changed the timing on the motor and made it the slowest, highest torque motor you ever saw. I could have run a train with that thing.

Somewhere last night I saw an alternative to using super glue.
The person used a brush-on lubricant on the axle that dried in place. Multiple applications were recommended for sloppier bushings.
In a senior moment I forgot to mark the article or write down the lubricant.
Can anyone help out?