by Nor Cal Mike » Sun Oct 14, 2012 11:14 am
If you want to use the Slotting plus screws that you already have, I suggest this. I have had good luck in the past when fixing stripped out body posts by filling the the stripped out post with super glue. After the glue is dry, I re drill the hole with a small bit. I then care fully screw the new screw in to re tap the threads. I go in a little than back her out before going back in until the screw is fully in. I have several cars that have had that repair done and they are still going strong.
Another source of body screws that can be found locally come from a hardware store with a fully stocked fastener department. I buy #2 (I think) (my brain has number dyslexia) brass, flat headed wood screws. They are also available in steel but I prefer brass because brass is easier to machine down if necessary. About the shortest length screw that you will find that has the smooth shoulder above the threads are the 1/2" screws. Some bodies will allow you to use the whole screw without trimming the screw, others may not. It depends on how long the body post is. I trim them to length by holding onto the upper shank of the screw with needle nose pliers and grind the tip of the screw down until it is the desired length with a bench grinder or peanut grinder with a course sanding disc attachment. I prefer to leave the screws as long as possible under the theory that more threads equal more resistance to unwinding of the screw under driving conditions when the car is set up with body float. Most body posts have a recess that reaches to at or near the bottom of the post that can be threaded to accept longer screws. If I need to turn the head of the screw down because it is too big to fit into the recess of the chassis, I simply chuck the screw shank into an electric drill and hit the edge of the head with a file while it is rotating then file to the desired dimension.