Tuning Pioneer Trans-Am Part One - Body Float

[HomeRacingWorld]

[btaylor]

Great stuff Harry, I like the Video's, they are right to the point and clear on instruction.
Should help all of us a lot.
Thank you!

Bob

[chappy]

Superb tutorial Harry, best yet. :text-bravo:
Bob

[HomeRacingWorld]

Not intended as a harsh criticism of the models :)
At least they can be altered this easily. I cannot say this for all others.
If you are racing non-magnet on wood, most every club I have spoken with perform the identical modifications.

[ccobra]

Thanks Harry, you gave me some incentive to get my Pioneer Camaro going again. I was in the process of redoing the chassis since the motor mount broke the first weekend I had it and I have given it a lot of thought of giving it some flex. Now I am convinced that is the way to go. Again thanks for the informative how-to.

[TsgtRet]

Harry this is how I do all of my Pioneers (I happen to have a blue notchback Mustang I got from some guy in Dixon, Mo :think: as an example). One exception: On my "green" Camaro I didn't radius the front of the chassis but did all of the other mods....result, no screws in the front at all (chassis is trapped under the taps on the body) and it's one of my quickest Pioneers.

[HomeRacingWorld]

Yes sir, heard about that and had thought of mentioning it in the article. In fact I can easily add it, and I just might.

Thanks Sarge, it's good input like this that helps our fellow enthusiasts.

Mr. Cobra...I drill a hole and use a screw to help secure the motor. I will show the long version tomorrow I hope :)

[HomeRacingWorld]

[HomeRacingWorld]

You could drill both sides if you felt the need to. I just do one side and that secures the motor well enough. The endbell side is formed as well to keep the motor from flexing. So with just one screw, the motor is safely secured.

I use the screws at SCC. I will have this article finished soon so you can refer to it in the future.