How to build a resin kit

[jmsh54]

Greetings, David thank yoou for posting up this information. It is a great help. The most important part is cleaning up the body before painting. Regards, John

[dreinecke]

Glad to be of some service. If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

And John, you are correct...pre-paint cleaning prep is absolutely important!

[balsaworks]

Lots of useful tips here, great thread!
I have used lamp heat to adjust the shape of resin bodies, it has worked very well, not sure if it applies to all types of resin.
An old fashioned desk lamp with a 60W bulb is a perfect heat chamber for this purpose.
You can hold the body in your hands, close to the bulb, and move it around a bit for a few minutes to heat up the area that needs to be adjusted. After a while the heated area will begin to soften and feel rubbery. Make the correction, remove the body, and hold it still in the corrected position until it cools down and gets solid again. Repeat as required.


Below is a DBR1 body with the rear end corrected using lamp heat. The opening for the wheel had to be adjusted afterwards of course.
I made a paper pattern first and then used a round sanding stick to restore the opening to the right shape.

[dreinecke]

Balsa - great illustration! Thanks for adding that, I think folks will find those pics invaluable!

[balsaworks]

There was a discussion recently in another forum about what tools to use to finish edges and openings in resin bodies.
I’ve looked up some of my favourite tools and thought they might be of interest to share.
David has already mentioned that sanding sticks are very useful. A couple of years ago I stumbled upon a local jewelry tool shop and found a lot of interesting stuff. Among many other things they had an incredibly good selection of needle files and sanding sticks in shapes that I hadn’t seen before.
The better the match between the tool and the piece that you're working on, the better the chance of a good result.
I use these files & sticks all the time and regularly come back to that store as the sticks wear out. Shops like these can be found on the net too of course.

[BRP32]

Awesome How to!

Thanks David!

Wayne (Bolton's Speed Shop) :D :D :D

[GPGarages]

With regard to this technique, I'll say don't do it! This was a popular way to fill on plastic models back about 25 years ago. It does work......BUT, it may leech a brown, sticky, bleach-smelling goo at some later date. Through the paint and decals, if any. By later date, I mean anytime from a year to 20 year later......I have quite a few 1/72nd and 1/48th scratchbuilt and vac-form models that have either needed repairs or have been ruined.
For larger, thicker areas, I prefer a filled epoxy material like J-B Weld "Quick". I also use this to mount body posts in bodies. For smaller, thinner areas, use any of the available putties, like either Squadron Green or White, or a red spot surfacing putty sold at auto parts and paint shops. There are also some good fillers made by Gunze Sangyo in a paste form found at better plastic model type hobby shops. Hook up with your local IPMS plastic modeler group to find out more.
Dan

[waaytoomuchintothis]

This thread is more than a year old. What technique are you talking about? The baking soda or the heat lamp, or what?

[dreinecke]

I think Dan is referring to CA glue and baking soda probably. I've been using it for about 12 years with no problem, but perhaps there are issues when it goes longer?

I'll await Dan's clarification and see.

[GPGarages]

All, my experience with baking soda and super glues was related to flat finished military models. It is possible that a gloss finish may seal the surface and prevent the problem. I'll check with some of my local IPMS types to see what they think. I just quit using the technique about 10 years ago due to several ruined models. Your experience may vary.
dan

[dreinecke]

Dan - interesting to hear. My buddy Shawn who taught me casting has used it since the 80's with no issues. I wonder if it does have something to do with paints. Both of us always use automotive lacquers over it.

[buspor63]

What is a good technique for thinning thick areas? I have a "burr ball" for my Dremel, I also have some bits for my die grinder, but that may be too big. How do you tell when this is thin enough, scissor calipers?

[buspor63]

[TuscoTodd]

[TuscoTodd]