Help with Resin bodiex

[CharlieB72]

I'm new to HO Resin Bodies, but not to slot racing. Raced 1/24 and 1/32 scale back in the late 60's. Trying to resurrect some of my son's old chassis into something new. The cars haven't been run since the late 80's.

I have 5 resin bodies that I tried to paint. I washed the bodies InDawn dish detergent, tried to prime them, but the primer scratches off. What can I use to clean the mold release off.

Thanks.,.CharlieB

[eastside johnny]

oops! can't seem to read clearly. My bad

[sweet]

[CharlieB72]

Eastside Johnny and Sweet;

Thanks for thw ewplies.

[RichD]

If the mold release is silicone it will be difficult to remove. The best solvent for silicone is MEK, that may not play well with the resin, so I would not risk using it. Water with dishwashing liquid in it would be safe, but it would take a few passes with that and a toothbrush to remove all of the silicone. I had one resin body where the silicone had gotten into the resin itself and it was especially difficult to remove.

[Z-carfan]

Best thing i have used for resin bodies. submerse body into a contain of Pine Sol. Let it si 12-24 hours, then use a tooth brush to scrub off any remaining paint.
Then wash with soapy water and allow to dry. You can then paint away.

[model murdering]

Ya gotta break the sheen, or re-scuff ANY unknown. Period. It's painting 101.

Start somewhere between 800 and 1500 depending on the quality of the surface and how the material cuts. On a NICE raw resin offering, say 1000/1200. I like to wet sand after a thorough de-greasing in Super Clean. I throw a few drops of Dawn in the water so the de-greasing continues as you work. The bonus is that your paper stays clean and lasts longer. You will feel the difference in the cut.

A cleanser clean up is mandatory in my book. Somewhat old-school, but time tested. The cleanser rouge is used to scrub out the seams and edges: WHICH is where GOOD paint jobs always come loose; because of non-thorough/incomplete prep work. I have a coupla old tooth brushes for the task. One still fluffy with full bristles, and one with the nap cut back a bit for grinding out seams or panel lines.

A toothpick of the round variety works good for scuffing out seams too. Depending on how they look, I may also back track and hone them out using coarse rubbing compound. Crappy seams that arent smooth, are one of the number one causes of boogers and blems in an otherwise nice paint job.

Good Luck!

[mattb]

I use and have used various cleaners and soaps. Most all will do the job. I like to soak in alcohol, 70% I think. Short term, maybe 10 minutes or so. After that, I like to scrub with an SOS pad. Next I soak in a bottle of cheap dishwashing detergent mixed with water, at least 30 minutes. Rinse and sand if more is needed. I find Duplicolor white lacquer primer helps to seal down problems in the resin.

The main problem you might run into is too much mold release in the original pour. When too much release is sprayed into the mold, it seems to absorb into the wet resin. That is the real problem that regular cleaning methods won't cure. I find that good lacquer primer helps and sometimes two primer applications. Then. if you are lucky the chemical will stay below the primer.

Understand this is a chemical that leeches from the resin. Not a chemical on the resin surface.

[CharlieB72]

Appreciate all the replies and advice...Charlie