Thats very sharp Todd! A gorgeous color.
Looks like one of the Alclad chrome colors or a Hot Wheels restoration color. Can you tell us what you used please? I think it would look great on one of my 3D projects.
Cant beat the "syntered nylons" for durability. You can tie it in a knot, but body work in the conventional sense is futile. I eventually went as low as 220 dry, and it was still laughing at me. I'm not sure I want to work THAT hard. :hand: :lol:
It is after all nylon. One of it's primary intended properties is abrasion resistance; so you're gonna hump to get any head way sanding or filing it. The consensus seems to be to knock the rough edges as best you can, putty up, and out; cut it back, and then hammer on enough high solids primer to work your way back in the finishing stages. Tried an old plastic smoothing trick using using mellow heat from a propane torch, but failed to smooth or break that sharkskin finish; nor would it react favorably with solvent. Again, it's nylon.
No hijack intended, but I'd also like to add that I have worked with one of the other 3D materials. "Acrylate resin" ....
... black in color, stinks like super glue when it's freshly printed, but dissipates in short order. The detail is substantially better!
A back burner project, you can see that I savaged the back floor. I fit up a different drive unit in just a few short minutes. It files and sands like buttah'; but feels a bit brittle under the knife, when you cut on the bias, or plunge and scrape with a gouge. Honestly, I think it cuts back a bit too easy. It's a hair tougher than "Evercoat" (polyester glazing resin) from 1:1 autobody. I can see where it would be easy to go a bit far/deep and loose a line or a curve if one were to get overzealous. I'll keep y'all posted in my thread as it progresses, I'm still trying to reconstruct my losses from the photbucket debacle.
My sense of it is that there is a missing link (tweener product) between the two extremes with respect to bodies. Heck there may already be one as yet untried, Perhaps even using the syntered nylon as the base for a model, with the more cooperative Acrylate resin over the top few thousanths, which is basically what we do in conventional 1:1 autobody.
Looking forward to your reveal.
Bill