![Image](https://i.imgur.com/vm2JeiU.jpg)
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Sybil started life as a wrecked AFX Model A panel that arrived without a roof. I didnt have a cognitive plan, other than inline power and a narrowed tail. Chassis began as an experimental Tyco mish mash, where I was playing with steering ideas. First cut was behind the doors, then a section cut in the rear to tighten her cheeks. Then I went mining in the slime green scrap pile for parts.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/8fVtLzn.jpg)
Im a petty opportunist. A Capri rear section flipped up on it's tail provided the rear corners for the tub.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/ik7leta.jpg)
A slice off a Poison Pinto door made a nice rear frame connector. If ya cut it right, the original body mounts become stand offs for the inline motor.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/DuPPizo.jpg)
The Poison Pinto roof makes a perfect deck lid. It's chubby enough to bash around with the file to get the corners profiled nicely without extra filler.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/VG2hc0W.jpg)
All the nibblets are file fit and bonded using Lime green AFX goop. I like to work in the original material, even on customs that will be painted conventionally. I have it in stock for restoration work anyway.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/O7Pyyni.jpg)
I added the rear valence from the Poison Pinto as well. Flipped upside down it made a nice rear cockpit apron. I also snifed the header bow out of a mashed AFX Baja, then installed it as a dash panel for a companion to the rear apron, to tighten up a rather vague expanse left behind from the roof removal. Sometimes ya just gotta feel your way along.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/k2LqWXW.jpg)
Once the dash set up, I added some filler to roll the cowl up, and alter the some what flat original styling.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/w0zUSdB.jpg)
With that much solvent and liquid plastic in a small body, it's a good idea to step off and let things cure out. I worked out a drop spindle beam and frame rail clip. Same ole schtick, just narrowed slightly with the caster rolled back a bit to level the ride height.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/9cTCv5Y.jpg)
The front rims have locator lip to index the tire. It also works backwards for some old school finned drums. They began life as T-jet idler gears, that were center bored and rough filed for good bite. They simply press fit onto the hubs.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/SREDm2E.jpg)
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A typical jam nut arrangement for a dummy motor. They change slightly from build to build, but the eye deer is always the same.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/S15PcX4.jpg)
Pick ups are braids trapped in a PTEG envelope, and a standard T-jet guide. It all threads together using the dummy motor.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/9fMaLqm.jpg)
For as tight as this build is, I unexpectedly I wound up with enough room for a firewall. It may seem fussy at H0 scale, but they really sell the look in the end.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/RHN7PGK.jpg)
A standard AFX chrome grill is stripped. The headlamps are bobbed off, and the phony grill mesh is pared away. The bottom sill hides a severe back cut and a hidden back panel that allows the jail bars to slide up behind like an upside down guillotine.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/sCbSAxR.jpg)
Provisions for a windshield include a paper clip and the left over body standoffs from the donor Pinto
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/wrMfBzT.jpg)
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/3V0WmQN.jpg)
A little back relief on the mounts against the inside of the chassis, allows the frame to slide up and down nicely.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/Lf2Xv0S.jpg)
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The glass is strip cut from an old cassette box. I heated it slowly over my soldering iron until it was wiggly, then contoured it to the frame. The a recess is cut around the glass to seat the paperclip frame. Tedious, but totally worth it. Polish as usual. Bulletproof!
Liquid plastic is applied to the cowl and allowed to fully flash. Still soft I was able to push the new windshield into it and form a perfect mounting channel
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/mtfzLbk.jpg)
I usually try and keep things simple, but I wasnt really in control of this build anymore. It took on a life of it's own. I worked out a jail bar insert for the grill.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/lvi9RBh.jpg)
Sick of diecast "make due headers", I twisted up some pipes that pin into the engine block. When the mounting screw is tightened, they clamp the body down onto the chassis, using the lower cowling rail. Sometimes you just dumb into stuff that works out great .... LOL
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/K6hcFmH.jpg)
I painted this dumb thing two times (hence the name) before I settled on Hugger Orange Lacquer, about three coats to get it cut in and start an even color base. Each pass a little more liquid than the previous until it looks uniformly shiny/sticky.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/Wjscvfj.jpg)
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/I7eMKZS.jpg)
After the fourth coat, Testors Inca Gold is launched over a still wet, orange body. Less is more here! Its something you should practice at least once. The flakes should never touch each other. Clear is applied lightly while still in the flash to seal the flake down. After sufficient dry time liquid coats of clear are applied until smooth, and allowed to dry.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/rsBEv4s.jpg)
Over glassy smooth clear, the vinyl flame licks lay out and adhere beautifully. The flame base is two light coats of Testors Emerald Green metallic, with a dusting of Testors Lime Ice over the top for contrast. Just enough for coverage. After peeling the stencils, the licks should be allowed to fully cure before dusting some clear over the top to seal them. After 24 hrs the model can be buried in clear again, for the liquid look. If you dont seal the licks, one could wash them off with the next liquid clear coat.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/6NaKsIi.jpg)
Appointments are Chrome Alclad finished with Duplicolor clear.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/WRlp3WJ.jpg)
Thanx for looking guys! :auto-driving: