Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

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Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby model murdering » Tue May 23, 2017 9:07 pm

My chosen scale is H0, but Im a bit of a throwback. The modern H0 manufacturers rarely get it done for me. My custom modeling schtick is heavily influenced by the large scale scratch builders across the decades. I steal what ideas or techniques I can, then twist and pervert it to my own uses. Occasionally, I even have an idea or two of my own. We'll start with a project that turned into one of my favorite builds.



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The "Uncola Roadster"



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We started with a smashed AFX Model A Coupe. They make a great base for mischief. I just pushed the roof straight down to give the tonneau closed look. Perhaps not the smartest move. It created a tiptoeing mandate for the entire project because the vinyl look is actually a factory painted effect.




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The project morphed from a rough exploration for T-jet adaptation.



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The windscreen is hand cut from the long side of the AFX Woody, set aside and polished later.




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The finished tub requires a little cut and paste around the lower cowling and side aprons in order to re-contour where the original stylists took some liberties for chassis fitment.



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The rough idea was encouraging.



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The grill shell needed a re-think. I didnt have a real plan for the modified grill shell. I just knew I couldnt use the factory bit.Nowadays I just build the grill right onto the body. Theres a secret slot at the bottom of the lamination for the mesh. Sometimes I carve the relief, other times I just make a "U" shaped intermediate piece.



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Inspired from a 7 Up can sitting on my tool box, I started with a yellow lacquer base. Real easy on the fluid lever to cut the model in neatly; then open it up and blow down two wet coats back to back. Note, no masking here!




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Prior to the yellow flashing, a puff of silver is added to the wet sides of the yellow lacquer flame base. Looks like dirt now, which is normal. One cleared it will provide some shimmer in the flames.



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Vinyl licks are added, then the initial dark reen fade base is skirted along the lower regions. Always burnish and triple check your masks for hair, fuzz, or any areas the may have lifted.



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A second lighter green fade base is carefully added to raise the fade base up the side, but not enough to cover the darker skirts. The fluid lever is just barely open and you can count the droplets on the open edge (top) as they go down.



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Testors Lime Ice lacquer and some trickeration with the airbrush. The metallic Lime Ice is layed out straight down from the top as an even liquid coat on the top and sneaked just over the downward edge. The model is quickly flipped over and and the dry edge of the fan is used to frost up from the skirt. The trick is to turn the liquid Lime Ice on top away from the dry fan, by cranking your wrist over. The frosted sides should just blend up to where you dropped the liquid over the top edge.



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It's important to remember to paint your lil' widgets while your doing the body. There's nothing worse than cleaning up and suddenly realizing you doofed out.



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I separated the lamps from the stock rad/grill assembly and drilled them for mounting and handling. The fronts are painted with Alclad and cleared first. Once they're dry the are flipped over and the pin is taped down. The trick is to paint the backside from directly above at low pressure.



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A gallon of clear after the base dried, cures warts! Even on the best of days you'll have some raising or flash around your stencils. Dont panic. let them cure out a bit. Then flick off any crusty edges, and finally iron them down with the back of your fingernail. It's always best to allow any effects or graphics to sry completely before moving forward with clear. That way your edges wont lift or crinkle up. Two very light coats of clear to seal the transition between the yellow flame base and the top coats. Let it dry a say or so, then you can plow the clear down with abandon.



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I shot the tonneau last using gloss black. This ensures a good bond onto the clear. Go real light on the fluid lever around the masking, again at a perpendicular angle. Then a coupla easy coats for coverage. The final coat is shot at more distance by moving back. It will be drier, and slightly dull the tonneau; so it doesnt look overly greazy, like fresh Armoral.




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The tail lamps are just mono filament fishing line that is eased up to a lighter. It'll roll up automatically. Just dot it with red or amber depending on which end you're on. If you want bigger lenses, raise your test weight ... LOL
Last edited by model murdering on Sun Feb 11, 2018 5:10 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby Z-carfan » Tue May 23, 2017 10:40 pm

That is a beauty of a build! Welcome to HRW!
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby HomeRacingWorld » Wed May 24, 2017 5:30 am

Yes, welcome. That is one heck of an intro.

Excellent modeling and photos.
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby btaylor » Wed May 24, 2017 5:57 am

Fantastic little car! working in that scale is tuff! flames in that scale is beyond belief!
well done, and welcome aboard.
Look forward to seeing more of your builds.

Bob
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby 32lbking » Wed May 24, 2017 8:44 am

I really enjoy seeing your builds. The detail you manage to get into such small cars is amazing!
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby strangebrew » Wed May 24, 2017 9:32 am

:dance: :clap: I admire your ability to SEE something that small, that well. :music-rockout:
OUTSTANDING detail work. :text-welcomewave:
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby mjrfd99 » Wed May 24, 2017 9:39 am

Super work! Love the builds.
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby TuscoTodd » Wed May 24, 2017 10:37 am

That is one SWEET looking build - thank you for sharing the progress pics/details to go along with the finished project!!!
:text-bravo:
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby Vintage 1/24 » Wed May 24, 2017 7:18 pm

Sits very nice, and has a realistic overall scale appearance - HO can be a tough scale to model and maintain stance, proportions etc.

What does the chassis look like here, looks like some interesting brass bits up front... ?
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby dreinecke » Wed May 24, 2017 10:37 pm

That is awesome!
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby sweet » Thu May 25, 2017 8:25 am

For those of you that are not familiar with "model murdering" and his work, be prepared to be looking at HO cars with your jaw dropped and mouth open.



model murdering, bring it...bring it all here. You'll fit right in.
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby model murdering » Fri May 26, 2017 9:44 pm

Thanks for the warm welcome guys!

"Vintage 1/24: What does the chassis look like here, looks like some interesting brass bits up front... ?"

It's my 3 point, hot rod, front module adapted to a clipped T-jet chassis. Delicate in appearance, but very sturdy in practice. The module uses a drop spindle brass front axle beam. Frame rails index into bores made in the front magnet housing. Radius rods pivot in and out on an arc. They lock the body into the chassis at the aprons. A mounting screw captures frame and chassis via a lateral frame connector using the chrome blob motor which hides a jam nut. Hence the "3-Point".





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This pic is from another build, but it gets the idea across. Less the radius rods, here's a shot of how it goes together, more or less. I may change the application on the fly, for different bodys, or chassis; but the modules are all derivative of this early example. The pick ups are a floating assembly similar to the vintage AJ's wheelie pick ups of yore. I simply delete the extra "spring perch bend" to prevent lofting. The assembly just ejects under duress if you happen get to upside down or barrel rolling.



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I hide all the naughty bits underneath.



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From the top.
Last edited by model murdering on Wed Feb 14, 2018 10:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby Broman62 » Sat May 27, 2017 5:15 pm

Welcome MMG...that is some outstanding work!!!
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby vins123 » Sat May 27, 2017 11:00 pm

wow you do some really nice work
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Re: Model Murdering Garage: Why Be Normal?

Postby model murdering » Tue May 30, 2017 3:56 pm

Many thanks guys. I appreciate everyone who stopped by to look, and all the very kind words.




The Shoehorn Coupe that follows, and the Uncola roadster shown previously; were both built at roughly the same time. The Coupe required more complex bodywork modifications, so naturally it took a bit longer to finish.

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Front and side views of the radius rod pivot lock.






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One thing leads to another around here. I started out with a roof chop and quarter window fills, then added the integral shade, and inner rear fender panels.







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The chassis gets trimmed a bit, and a floating pick up assembly is used. The guide stays with the body.






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The paint is Dupli Color's Metal Cast system. In a nutshell, it's a two stage dealio, but I add clear as the third step. Start with the flaked silver base coat, then apply the candy/transparent top coat to the desired tone. Their metallic base has some good sized chunk. For this model I made the obligatory cut in pass, two quick cover coats; and while it was still flashing off, I backed my distance well off on the third pass; letting those big chunks tumble and cartwheel akimbo into the sticky base, like snow fall.





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By hanging the top layer of flake akimbo, rather than a conventional smooth liquid pass you'll get those random explosions that really dance when viewed in off angle bright light; once you apply the candy red.





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Metal Cast silver base + candy red, then buried in clear. When viewed "straight on" the finish appears very uniform.




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Comparo pic. The original Aurora Specialty Model A's were awfully herdy gerdy, but they all have a gnarly rod hiding somewhere inside.





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The name Shoehorn stems from the build mandate; which was to create a reasonably believable street rod coupe, using a t-jet base. Fitments were tight, and always touch and go.





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Mono filament line is used for small lenses/marker lights. Sneak it up next to a lighter, and it rolls up naturally into a perfect lens. Then dot it with transparent red or amber as required.





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H0 customizers are always hurten' for dummy motors and chrome. Savaging a die cast for it's chrome is par for the course. I have a box of appropriated chrome gumball motors. In this case, the "blob" motor is an assemblage of bits from various donors. This one is a Hot wheels block and Zoomies, topped with Johnny Litening blower bits.





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Light buckets are from a Darda die cast Vicky grill assembly. I snifed the buckets off for this project and used the Vicky grill on another project. The grill here is just a sandwich of flat stock pieces, and a snip of stainless filter mesh as seen previously. For the headlamps brackets, or other lesser diameter appointments, I use the common sewing pin. Easy to work with, cheaper than dirt, and most importantly, they're already shiny.



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Last edited by model murdering on Mon Feb 12, 2018 9:42 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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