Did anyone find a lower voltage motor for the Carrera

[reel55]

Did anyone find a lower voltage motor for the Carrera 1/24 cars that did not require modifying the chassis?

[dayble]

Get the AutoArt 12v motor for their 1/24th
Mustang, swap the pinion from the old motor, solder the wires on and go.

[dayble]

Part # 14101-07

[reel55]

Thanks for the info - will see how it performs

[dayble]

We run them in the GT40 and Ferrari 330/412 with stock gearing and Ortmann rear tires.
On Carrera track we run them at 10v with only the rear magnet and they are a blast to drive.
As soon as CincySlots gets alum wheels and Rubirosa tires we are going to convert to the complete rear axle kit and probably pull out the rear mag too.
If you want crazy fast magnet cars you can put in an FK motor like the Slick7 or Cheetah but it takes more work. Somewhere on the old Yuku site is a how to article I posted several years ago about doing that. The only problem is the poor wheels and tires. To take advantage of all that power you really need to upgrade the entire rear end. I built a couple of the C6R Vettes with these motors but until Bruce came along with the hop up kit and tires they were not much fun.
I see you have a routed track. Does it have Magnabraid?

[reel55]

The track has magnabraid , but we run without magnets . We found that it caused to much damage to the cars when it let go
Our normal 1/24 cars are BRM Porsche, Scaleauto GT3 Porsche and BMW , i have the only Carrera,s (streamliners ,corvette ,ferrari 275 and SWB 250,s
and Autoarts - gt40, mustang and 2 rally cars(Suby and focus)
We normally run 1/32 (many classes -99% stock) as the track is 3 1/2" spacing - we race every second week on friday evenings here (mostly on silicons)
If you get up this way Pm me for info

[dayble]

BC is one place I want to see!
Might be a while though. likewise if you ever come down here save a Wed nite for racing with us. We have several home tracks in the area. Most are routed and have Magnabraid but we run mostly without mags.
You can see some of our tracks in the club section of Slotblog by searching AZGR.

[waaytoomuchintothis]

When the big black '47 Oldsmobile came out, I swapped in an old 26D motor with great success, but they aren't that easy to find!

[Derby City Speedway]

I have thought long and hard about having a motor made for this purpose. But there just isn`t a big enough demand to off set the out of pocket coins it would require. I have however successfully adapted a NC5 type motor into all of my 1/24 carrera cars. It really isn`t that tough, and I can just as easily put the stock motor back in, just the way it was. There is a little plastic missing from the cradle, but it looks very clean depending on your efforts.

[RazorJon]

[dayble]

Found the article from back in 03 - 04...

I still see a lot of folks complaining about 1/24th Carreras being dogs on some tracks, here's why...These are equipped with 18v.
motors which work well with Carrera power packs or variable power supplies that will adjust to that power level.
However most folks and Raceways run 12 to 13.8v. which has been pretty much the standard in slot car power since the 1950s.

It seems Carrera has re-invented the Sony Beta videotape system!

Swapping motors on these is not too hard and can easily be reversed back to stock. There are a lot of motors to choose from. Longer motors such as the Ninco and Slot-it Boxer fit across the motor bay but may require cutting away some of the motor pod
The FK types are short motors, I like the Slick7 because it has a lot of torque and accelerates these heavy beasties pretty well. The short motors are only supported by the screws but after a few years of running this way I have not had a problem.

To start you'll need a gear puller and a gear press, a 3-48 tap and the correct # drill bit for that, a sharp, fine point hobby type blade and a soldering iron and some solder.

With the body removed from the chassis remove the motor pod screws. Unplug the motor at the harness, remove its retaining screws and set them aside, then pop it out of the pod. Un-solder or snip off the harness and using the gear puller remove the pinion gear. Now you can put that motor away in case you choose to go back to stock.

Very carefully drill and tap your new 12v motor stock mounting screw holes to 3-48.. Don’t drill & tap too deep or you'll damage the armature. Next, using the gear press install the pinion on the new motor shaft be careful not to bend the armature and fit the motor in the pod to check gear alignment. Now you will want to solder the motor harness onto the new motor. If you are not sure of the polarity don't worry, there is a reversing switch on the bottom of the car that solves that problem.

With your hobby knife blade trim the motor mount screw holes in the gear side of the motor pod. This is done by elongating (slotting) both screw holes toward the center hole that the motor shaft w/gear sticks through. Be careful not to cut all the way through to the center hole or you will weaken the mount.

Using the stock motor mount screws mount the motor in the pod. I use a piece of cellophane wrapper between the gears to set the gear lash, moderately tighten the screws, remove the cellophane and check to see if gears are properly aligned, if so tighten the screws but not too hard or the plastic of the pod will split.

Now you're ready to plug in the motor harness, re-install the body and track test it. You'll see a HUGE difference in performance at normal voltages.