1/8:axle's

[Rastas]

Where can I find some 1/8 axle's in Australia seems to be a shortage ,every site I've looked have got Busher's and 3mm axles ???
Any help will be appreciated
Thanks john.

[chrisguyw]

Hi John, Both Professor Motor and PCH parts express have 1/8th axles (threaded and non threaded) in stock.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[TuscoTodd]

[RichD]

Another possibility is 1/8th inch drill blanks.

[chappyman66]

You can even use 0.125" music wire in a pinch if you are using set screw wheels....
Although both the drill blanks and ejector pins will be harder and straighter in the long run.

[strangebrew]

I'm too cheap to buy that high-dollar stuff.
Here in the states I buy 1/8 steel rod at the local hardware store, cut to size & polish in a drill with sandpaper.
Lately I've been using KS 1/8 brass tubing with a round toothpick epoxied inside.
(Didn't get bent at the past 2 showdowns :lol: :lol: ).....& it's a weight saver too...... :D

[Rastas]

IMG_20190208_201748.jpgThanks to every one for replying I know about professor motor and I've ordered part's from pch it's just not viable unless you have a pretty big order, I've looked into drill blanks I can get 940mm for about $16.00 I think I'll go that way. Or the strangebrew way I'm quite partial to using what's laying around this is why I need heavyweight axles, the chassis is steel and gelvo wire !

[slothead]

For front axles I sometimes use 1/8" solid polystyrene plastic tubing or rod from Evergreen. I can usually find a package with several 14" long pieces at a hobby store.

I've used these with set screw wheels, or glued a spacer on the end and left out the set screw for free spinning wheels. Now I'm tempted to try this for a rear axle too. For full body cars the axle shouldn't be at risk of being bent, and for open wheeled cars I still think the risk is low, and they are likely to flex at impact and recover. If the axle is straight at install I think it would be fine in general use.

Strange - is this something you'd consider?

[bill from nh]

I hadn't thought of using Evergreen rod for axles. Years ago, Champion sold what they called Arcolite front axles in both 1/8" & 3/32" dia. These were supposedly some sort of plastic mixed with fiberglass.They were lighter than steel, but never very popular. My thought is that most anything straight & round can be used for front axles, but for rear axles, you need a material that it straight & doesn't flex when power is applied through the gears. Try the Evergreen rod & let us know how it works for you. Axle bending shouldn't be a strong consideration. Even steel ones sometime bend & break.

[HomeRacingWorld]

[munter]

[slothead]

It must take quite a bit of force to bend or break a 1/8" metal axle when so little of it is exposed outside of the chassis. When racing 1/24 scale cars on a commercial track and in a club I had collisions that snapped the post off the guide, but never broke an axle. Not doubting it can happen, just glad I never crashed that hard.

I used to order parts from Professor Motor and buy around 10 Parma axles at a time. After a few builds I wouldn't want to use what I had left for front axles so I'd try other things. When I started building dirt modified cars for my home oval I tried to be economical (silly me) and even though I could make inexpensive chassis from all sorts of stuff (styrene, circuit board material, bits of brass), the running gear (guide, motor, wires, gears, axles, wheels, tires) added up quickly. Front axles was a place I could experiment.

[bill from nh]

Harry, which K&S 1/8" rod material are you using for your front axles? Piano wire, brass, or aluminum? At some point, I got 3' lengths of 1/8" & 3/32" drill rod from a friend to make front axles.

[HomeRacingWorld]

Just the steel rod sir.

My local Lowe’s carries it (no name brand) as well.

[chris]

I'm in Canberra and get 1/8 steel rod from the local Super Toyworld.

You could try your local steel supplier as well.


Chris.