Greg's "Learn from my fail" for 3D printing...

[MrFlippant]

I'm NOT an expert, but we're all new to something at some point. These are some of the things I share with people when they ask me about 3D printing. Please, PLEASE add, elaborate, correct, or contradict any of the following. We're always learning, and I appreciate learning from others who are having their own journey with 3D printing!

- Build it yourself. Unless your 3D printing budget includes paid support/maintenance, you WILL be having to fix it. Building it yourself means you're already familiar with it. For the actual building, take your time and follow any provided guide TO THE LETTER. It does not matter how much or how little you pay, or how complete the kit is. Whether you buy a complete kit like I did, or build it with off the shelf parts and a bill of materials (BOM) for making your own printer, just BUILD IT YOURSELF! That said, there is still an element of "you get what you pay for" and often times the really cheap kits are more trouble than they are worth. However, spending more will not necessarily net you a perfectly reliable printer from the start. Buy the best kit you can find within your budget. Buying a kit versus an assembled printer often means you can get more printer for your money as well.

- Keep all filament in a ziplock bag with the silica gel, or an air tight container with desiccant... even PLA, from DAY ONE! If it's not printing, store it properly in a dry bag/box. Most filament will come with a packet of silica gel for a reason, but many don't come in a resealable bag/container. One gallon Ziplock bags are big enough for most 1kg filament reels. As soon as you open a new spool, get a bag and put the silica gel packet in there in order to store that reel when you're done with it. Some people even go so far as to set up a "dry box" container with the filament spooling out the side of it. Although it seems like plastic, it's not that simple, and keeping it perfectly dry is a must. You might think your house is dry, but this stuff can be sensitive, especially cheaper filament (and we all love saving money!).

- When something goes wrong, look for help before trying to solve a problem or fix a failure on your own. Just because you built it, doesn't mean you know the BEST ways to fix it. There are usually guides that will save you more headaches. You could cause more problems if you fix something the way you think it should be fixed without knowing for sure. I could have avoided some of my major down times if I had reviewed the published resolution to my issue prior to "fixing" it. Crazy, right?

- Keep the extruder clean. Cheap filament (especially when it hasn't been properly stored) is often the cause of MANY printing problems. As soon as you even have a HINT of problems, make sure you clean it well. This doesn't always mean jamming something up in there or cranking up the heat. If there's residue from bad/old filament up in there, it won't always work itself clear. I've found that an "atomic pull" at 90 degrees with cleaner filament is working SUPER well for me and my printer, and I do this whenever I expect to leave the printer unused for any amount of time, or right before I use it if it has been unused, and/or when I'm changing to a different color and/or brand/type of filament. Since every printer is a little different, be sure to look up the tried and true maintenance methods for the one you build.

- Don't put (heavy) things high on your printer frame. This will depend a lot on the type of printer you have, of course, but for Prusa and its clones, where there is a rigid frame that the print head moves up and down on with a sliding heated build plate, you don't want heavy things up high. This is because the motion of the print head and bed moving quickly will cause the weight up high to move and depending on the pattern of motion it can start to resonate. Sometimes nothing is wrong with the print, but sometimes you get printing fails due to knocks or layer shift. In extreme cases, whatever is up there could come crashing down. Setting your filament spool up there is super convenient, but supporting the spool elsewhere is better. Similarly, don't hang tools and other things up there. It's nice when everything is compact and portable, which is why I did it at first, but inevitably, you want reliable printing more than you need a convenient location for things.

- Make sure your table is sturdy. If the table is not perfectly level, that's probably not a big deal, but you DO want it to be perfectly flat so that your printer doesn't tweak just by resting on it, and you want it to be sturdy so that the table can help absorb the motion and not resonate or wobble as a result. Some people use small tables and make them sturdy with a concrete paver of some kind. Weight will reduce motion, so a combination of weight and sturdiness is a good thing. The very affordable IKEA "Lack" table is quite popular. My current table was cobbled together with scrap and hardware, but the table top is a HEAVY chunk of something that's been sitting in the garage forever. I don't even remember what it ever was. Now it's a printer table.

- Don't change too many things at once. Preferably, only change ONE thing at a time. This applies to settings for printing, as well as changes to the printer, or filament, or whatever. If you change too many things, you won't know which change caused the desired result or the undesired fail. Sticking with PLA until you're comfortable is a good idea. Play with other filament types after the initial learning curve is well and truly over. I would almost say wait for a big fail or three, but if you're lucky enough to have problem free printing, you might as well jump into the tough stuff. Sooner or later, you'll be learning new things about your printer.

[HomeRacingWorld]

The BOM approach? You seem to favor that.

Are there links to articles for that? Links are welcome here, just a reminder.

I am seeing this whole 3D exploding. Not sure I am ready...but I am close.

Thanks for the time and effort of this report.

[dreinecke]

All good points. Haven't had any of those issues but see forums full of people making many of those mistakes you point out. Interestingly enough - Colorado is so dry, that there is no issue with the PLA sticking.

[chappyman66]

All valid points, yes.
I "blobbed" my printer too. It did require some spare parts, notably a new cooling block which came immediately from Dremel.

Biggest lesson was about changing filament. I use a continuous flow process. I don't try to clean the nozzle, I just clip off the old color and load the new color....and purge until the new color comes out. Foolproof, and never had a problem with a dirty extruder as a result.

[MrFlippant]

[chappy]

I would really like to try this myself, but I am still hesitant of my abilities.
Since i bought Tarn Foundry which makes people and some accessories in 32 scale i have been using and restoring the molds.
I just changed from soft metsl to resin.
This technology has me a bit apprehensive.
But i would love to be able to scan my origi als and then 3d print them.
I have so many different figures etc it would be a real time saver.
I just wonder if the cost of 3d printing the figures would be comparative to the resin pours.
Bob

[MrFlippant]

Cost, yes. Once the printer is set up, the actual unit cost per figure is pennies.
The main cost will be the printer, but it should pay for itself over time.
But the question is quality as compared to the resin casting. I realize that the resin casting isn't perfect, but it might still be better than FDM.
ABS filament isn't much more expensive than PLA, like maybe 10% more expensive on average. It does have the advantage of easy post processing to smooth out the layer lines. I don't think you'll be able to keep fine detail such as eyebrows or coat buttons at that scale, but I have not researched or tested to see how much detail is lost in that process.

Even with everyone picking up printers, the Tarn models are something people would still purchase, if not the STL Files to print on their own. With home 3D printing becoming a reality for more and more people, long term money will be selling the license to print the models for personal use. I have yet to see free downloads of race track flaggers, cameramen, etc. Scanning them with acceptable accuracy for quality reproduction with 3D printing will be the hardest part.