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Just remember the chassis needs space to allow the pod to move. Works best in a coupe. In the lotus it is pretty much fixed as that shell is a bad choice.

seeing all your heavy metall chassis i think i need to do one as well just to see if my thinking about ligthness is correct or not ...
nice work, Dan.

I have two cars with brass chassis in the proxy. So some interesting comparisons can be made between the different types of chassis. For me the biggest thing is finding the right motor. The Minebea S cans I use have good torque with excellent braking. When run at 14 volts they deliver the necessary rpm to get the most out of the chassis. The issue for me is that if a track host only has 12 volts or less the rpm of the motor never gets to where it needs to be. If the motors turned 21 k at 12 volts, they might be perfect. I may have to look at a Slot Devil at some time. They are rated at 25 k, but I am not sure about the braking. I think Aki's proxy entry has one, so I will have to pay closer attention to this when I run it.

I am going to use a GO! motor in a brass chassis and go with a higher gear ratio next one. See if I can get a little more top end( when compared to the Minebea) but still have some decent braking. Most 143 scale factory motors rely on magnetic force to assist in braking. Lose the magnets and the motors tend to lack the braking effect required. That has been my experience anyway.

@ Aki

The effectiveness of this, is more apparent on the larger scale cars I think. The torque the motors produce tend to lift the front end, which can lead to a deslot under heavy acceleration out of a corner. You can counter act this with some weight at the guide, and I think in 143 scale this is probably the most effective way to go. However a chassis with a pod tends to give you some of this effect as well as add some float into the chassis, and we see a lot of podded chassis. Like you said though, it is fun to build stuff a bit different whether it works or not!. My Camaro has torsion bars the transfer force for the rear wheels to the opposite front wheel. The thought being if the rear wheel lifts into a corner then the force is transferred to the opposite side front wheel counter acting the lift. Does it work? I don't know, but it is fun thinking that it does.

@ Peter

Your cars are the lightest in the proxy. So there will be some interest in the results to see what the correlation to chassis weight and laptimes is.

You guys are coming up with some great ideas and builds..Lots of talent showing through..
Thanks for sharing..
Rusty

Built another brass chassis to fit under a Bandai Nissan I had built a couple of years ago.

This is the design of chassis that I think i will stick with. The brass/lego block is simple and goes together quick. Using two brass plates is an idea to limit the brass work required. Only thing I need to mill out is under the crown gear. The brass plate is soldered together, and the lego blocks are glued to the brass with CA. The rear axle blocks come with a hole that the bearings press fit into with no drilling on my part. The CA glue holds firm and when trying to remove the bearing blocks on one of these, I actually bent the brass and the block never did let go.

I found this motor in my stock, and it is a good one. 28 K propels this car around the track nicely and the chassis handles well. This car is the fastest BARC car to date, and I think it will be heading to Peter's proxy in February. I have said it before, but I wish Bandai would have made more of these cars They make a very nice slot car.

Well this car was on my to do list for quite some time. I cast the shell months ago and today it got a chassis and some paint. A Ferrari 512. Photos indicate I need to work on those tail lights.

It has a Brass Flat pan and lego chassis just like the last couple.

Most likely a Proxy entry so I went without an interior.








Spent some more time on the tail lights.

Peter
You should get some silicone and pour it into the vacuum formed shell. You will end up with a very durable master

What paint did you use Aki, I need that colour for my Alpine?

Regards, Lloyd.