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Great, Aki.

This is what conversation means to me.

I like this car very much. What was the origin - a diecast or a resin kit ?

Regards,

Roland

Body is from Alezan resin kit

You are really knocking them out now. How do you find those motors? I found them really quick, but not good braking characteristics. Best thing I found was to run them at about 10 Volts. They do however produce a very fast car. Are you finding them the same?

Exactly the same Dan.
That was only motor that fitted under that casted engine.
Chassis is wide enough for ff-030 motor but there was not enough space between chassis and engine.

@Aki and Dan - what gear ratio do you use these small (15x12x10 mm) , "non - braking" motors with ?

Regards,

Roland

In my case , I am using an eight tooth pinion, and spur gears with between 20-24 teeth. There is only so much you can do with the wheel sizes we are dealing with. Perhaps adding a third gear to allow some some different gearing options is in order with these

I confess that on a few cars I run magnets in them on my home track to make them more drivable. Nothing like a GO car though, as I position magnets in such a way to make the car feel like a magless car. The magnetic effect enhances the braking and with proper magnet placement the result is still a car that needs to be driven around the track.

All my new builds are using the 10 x 10 x 20 mm 6 pole Minebea S cans which are a motor better suited to 143 cars. They only turn 16000 rpm though at 12 volts but they have much more torque. If they turned 22 k at 12 volts they would be perfect. As they have a lot of torque I was thinking of trying different gear ratios to try and gain some wheel rpm. I have some 12 tooth pinions to try.

Having said that on my home track the driving characteristics of the Minebea will result in better lap times then the cars powered with these 30 k cans. However , I could only place 10 th at the ProNoMag with them, and I feel a little more wheel rpm might help the cause, so will start experimenting with the gear ratio in an effort to gain some top end.

8/24, I bought few of these motors just to try them and this was a third car with this little motor.
Not a motor that I prefer to use but works on a small track
and adds an option if you want to build a nice looking car with little room for the motor.

building a little Mini Pickup ....

The Mini master is at it again!!!!

using the small milling machine to true the tires - it works really well.
The MCA is getting new tires - BARC BITES!
and a new chassis - this is the 4th evolution of the MCA. It started with a G9330 motor in a modified artin chassis with a Carrera Profi guide. Then came a box motor in the artin chassis.
Next - new printed chassis for box motor.
And now - PDFF motorpod chassis with latex dampers and ball bearings. Now it runs really smooth.
Now to build an insert! After 11 years, it will finally get one. with driver figure. But the driver figure will wear a MINI - T-shirt. Can´t go away from Minis too far ;)

Looks good Peter. I take it that the pinion is from cargo? What gear ratio do you use? I tried an 8-20 ratio on my podded chassis and although it works well (good response smooth power etc.) the motor tends to get very "warm" in a hurry. I really like the size adjustment feature on your tire truer. Looks expensive though. :lol:

Take care
Randy

the milling machine is quite expensive, you are right.
but you can do many things with that goodie.
tire trueing came as an add-on ;)

motor gets warm?
thats possible, with a stock gearing of 8/30 thats quite long if using 8/20. but if you re running without magnet, it shouldnt be a problem. be sure to lube the bearings, the gears (i m using teflon paste) and a very tiny bit of oil for the motor.
be sure the axle is not bonding, with a very, very tiny amount of side to side play.
pinion is from CarGo, standard modul 0.5mm pinion for 1.5mm motor axles 8 tooth

the wire wheels are awesome, Lloyd!
looking forward to see more pics of the Morgan!