Problem with power SCX Compact

[Dodgefarmer]

If you havn't don it already, Bromans Barracuda post in the building tips thread at the top of this forum is a very good read.

Randy

[Apec]

[Apec]

[walker]

picture 1 : more or less straight and even
picture 2 : not straight but a curve, can by no means provide good electrical contact.

picture 1 and 2 : Way more than 30 degrees from the chassis

Have you tested what I wrote :

"When you put the car on the track / test board now, the pickups should "cling" evenly and straight to the underside of the chassis.
They may not lift the car, this would be a sign of wrong bent / too short / too thick or unflexible pickups."
The front wheels must touch and roll.

Roland

[Dodgefarmer]

[pfuetze]

[Apec]

Pfuetze, that would be wonderful. Thank you for all your help.

Walker, is this what you mean? I have tried this, even with the new SCX Compact car and my problem for whatever reason is, I had a very bad power connection.

I would love to do the SCX flag conversion, but that’s beyond my skill level right now.

[Apec]

Or this?

[walker]

OMG....Is the drawing original SCX ???
Imagine the ends would stand vertically, where would be the front of your car ? In the air.

The first picture shows a good angle and a good length, and the braids are quite straight.
And you should mind that the ends of the first ( front ) braids do not lie on the second braids when the guide is pressed on the track.
In this case the contact point to the rails would only be the area where the front and rear braids touch - the highest / thickest point.
But the meaning of it all is a good contact area, not a small one.
If the front braids end short before the rear ones, they all lay flat on the guide when you press it on the track.
The ends of the braids look a bit frayed. But they should be flat nevertheless, too. Flat pliers do it.

Roland

[walker]

I forgot something different - have you tested the motors by attaching the power to the two spring shoes that normally are in touch with the brid in the giuide ?

And directly on the motors ?

Use ten volts and let them run. Flick your finger to them to see if there is a slack joint somewhere.

[walker]

[pfuetze]

Roland, i´m sorry to say, but please do not solder piano wire on the copper strips of the SCX.
you need to find the sweet spot between the 2 strips, they need to move absolutely free in the hole in the chassis, not touching the chassis in any way.
If you have too much pressure (that would be the case with the piano wire), your front wheels will never touch the track in any way, not even when you push the car down with your fingers.

Roland´s drawing is great, but be sure to use the upper part of the drawing, the shoe of the copper strips need to be flat.

at least this is my experience. (and i´m not saying that it is right, because i´ve been proven wrong too many times ;) )

[walker]

[Apec]

Thanks both of you guys for all your help. I will try exactly (how i think) you meant for the braids and the ears when I’m home from work.

I have a new out of the box motor and car, the car with broken ears(tabs) and the car with the tabs and braids bent incorrectly. All three motors i tested and work.

The used car with incorrect bend, i cannot achieve a good power connection but with your help I’ll try tonight again.

The new car, when the braids are bent at an angle similar to what you posted, would not get a good power connection for my Carrera GO track. And when bent more aggressively would obviously deslot because the front was raised too high.

I have never tried the braids as you shown on the first drawing, only the second so i will try. I cut the braids so may be too short but i have some ordered with stock length.

I will also try to round off the front of the guide flag as i read that may be a problem on my Carrera GO banking

[Apec]

So we figured it out!! The cars run great. Great power and handles as good as possible stock. Now time for tuning. These cars are much lighter in the rear and are much looser than the Carrera GO. I hate to say it but I think they will be quicker and more fun to drive too!!

Photo 1 worked much better than 2. If theirs another way you guys do your braids let me know and I’ll try. Also maybe even more important was making sure the tabs were perfectly straight and had bounce. The biggest thing i see these cars needing is ballast and good tires on the rear, then watch out!! I’ve seen vids YouTube of them making Carrera GO look like it’s standing still

#1 the cars rake (next is to try and lower this)

#2 didn’t work well (maybe i wasn’t doing correct or too sloppy)

#3 works great. Full power and minimum deslot. The front does deslot on grade change so i will attempt to round off the guide flag

Thanks again