Using D132 in 143 scale

[BARC 1]

[MikeySlotCars]

Nice start... but why did you buy a complete set?

you can buy only the CU (Starting track) for about $100 CAD so probably around $60-70 in US dollar

Just saying...

Mikey

[BARC 1]

It is cheaper in the long run. You need much more then just the CU to go digital. It also allowed me to play around with the system and understand how it all works. I wanted to know how it should work,before I start doing a bunch of mods on untested ideas.

[BazingaRacerX]

Very interested in the progress and successes you're having. Keep us posted. :music-rockout:

[dc6287]

Very interesting take on things, I will be watching this one closely!

[BARC 1]

I got the chip all wired up. To save space I got rid of the connectors and wired directly to the board. I used magnet wire for the front headlights as it is very fine and left the front wheels free wheeling. I needed to do this as the decoder wire was too big for the tight area around the headlights and front wheels

I had to set the speed to the lowest setting to get a decent throttle response. Might need a 50 ohm resistor to the motor to make better use of the throttle settings that are avialable

I zoomed around the small D132 set up with the car changing lanes and was happy with the lights and brake lights. Since the pictures were taken I added a rear mounting post and brought the back end of the car down to where is should be.

Decision is now made. All D132 track down the front straight transitioning back to GO track on either end. I have one Double crossover in the GO track and I may have to move the sensor on that to line up with the IR LED on the D132 chip

[Cjent]

:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

[buspor63]

Concerning the interference, I often run straight wired Slot.it motors on my D132 track. The only issue we've ever had is the CU going into safe mode when all the high amp draw motors accelerated at start with magnet cars using the stock power supply. That fix was provided by splicing a higher amp power supply onto the power cord pig tail and fusing it at 7 amps.... and doing away with magnets.

[BARC 1]

Thanks for the comments and info guys

I am a NoMag guy and the smaller 143 motors should not stress the CU power supply.

Tonight I got busy with the task at hand. Ripped out my front straight and current pitlane to get it ready to accept the D132 stuff. After contemplating the transition pieces I decided to make my own out of a GO straight. Pictures tell a thousand words. IT worked well and I will use scenic foam and drywall compound to finish these off.

[BRS Hobbies]

It's pretty easy to transplant the lap counting sensors and the power wires to a Carrera GO straight track. It might look better with the track all the same width around the track. Either way good luck on the project and I am looking forward to seeing how everything comes together.

Best regards,
Brian

[BARC 1]

[walker]

Nevertheless Carrera Digital 132 is by no means the ultimate for 43rd scale. The chips ar huge - see the Porsche and how high the body now sits.
I would prefer SSD because their chips are way smaller.

Roland

[BRS Hobbies]

Please be aware that the sensor spacing to the slot is slightly different on D132 in comparison to D143. This would only come into play if using a stock D143 car and/or stock D143 lane changers with the stock D132 Control Unit. Most times it will still work but may lead to a few misses due to the slight mismatch.

Also, the Carrera D132 26740 decoder chip is the smallest one that Carrera offers but it doesn't have lights.

Best regards,
Brian

[walker]

Just as I wrote - SSD is way smaller.

Roland

[BARC 1]