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I painted the body for this build a while back before this thread started

the body is from a revell kit
this car will race in my clubs classic nascar class

sorry but some pics might be a little blurry
my good phone is playing up and have had to resort to the crappy spare one
and it doesn't take the best pics
but will do the best I can



the basic specs will be
18k motor { not sure on what yet
slot-it wheels
nsr ultra grip tires
ninco prorace guide
slot-it motor pod
9/27 gearing slot-it

paint is tamiya royal blue with tamiya black on the bonnet
decals are left overs from other builds and come from Patto's place

here are just a few of the tools and parts used
will post more if needed as the build progresses
the wire is some bits I had and is 2mm/.08 inch
brass is .64mmx25.4mm/.025x1 inch plate , 6.3mmx3.1mm/.258x1.2 inch tube and 3.1mm/.258 inch sq tube
the pod is slot-it





will get some more up over the next few days

Wow, that's a great color of Blue. Back to the hobby store for me. Great choice of body also, I've always loved the Goat.

ok a bit more done

first I took the slot-it motor pod and trimmed the bits I didn't want



then cut 2 pieces of the brass rectangle tube a bit wider than the pod to allow for the side rails



then I soldered the side rails together using the square brass tube for the axle as a spacer
I then sat the rails in place and marked the regtangle tubes
using a cutting disc in the dremel I cut a grove for the rails to sit in to







i then used the body to set the wheel base
and checked for correct even spacing with the calipers
once set I soldered together





then I trimmed the the eccess of the sides
I also cut a small section out of the rear cross bar to allow for the crown gear





next will be the quide and front axle setup

Nice approach. I am watching with interest.

Cheers

Dan

I'm interested in this one as well. I have a Revell GTO body that needs a chassis.
If I can get in gear and get one done, I 'd like to see these run together.

Excellent work.

thanks guy's
shotgun I am one of those guy's that just works with what I have

a bit more done

i drilled the holes for the motor pod by sitting it in place and then with a very skinny drill bit
I drilled down through the screw holes
then I removed the pod and drilled the holes a little bigger on the top that was just enough to allow the screw to fit
the bottom hole was made big enough to fit the screw head in
that tucks thehead of the screw away nice and neat

I cut a piece of the retangle tube for the guide mount and drilled a hole to fit the small section of steel tube for the guide



then I measured how long the guide mount needed to be and trimmed to length
put the axle tube in to the uprights of the side rails
I placed it in place then took one of the short bent pieces of wire a clamped it in to place
then soldered the wire to the guide mount



there is no need to center the guide mount at this point as all I am doing is getting the wire in the right spot



once that was ready I fitted the wheels/tires to the rear
put the front axle in the axle tube and fitted the front wheels/tires
then drop the front setup in to the side rail uprights
I use a plastic bread tag for getting my front end sitting the right height that leaves just the right amount of
room for the braids
but as plastic doesn't like heat I made a spacer out of panel steel
both of these are .8mm thick
I also used a bar magnet that was the same thickness as the flat base of the ninco prorace guide
this gives me a front end that has the fronts tires just touching the setup board with minimal weight on the
front wheels
when I had the guide centered and held in place I soldered it all together
I put clips on the front axle between the chassis and the wheels for a heat sink





then I soldered the steel guide mount tube in place making sure it was square
and filed the front excess round to allow the guide to fit and turn freely



next I will trim all the extra wire off and tidy up
and fit side plates for mounting the body

I like this!! What will the estimate weight for the chassis be once completed?
Thanx for sharing your cool build.

Cheers
Clive

I have made and fitted the side pans

so I gut and bent 2 bits of wire
the same as the siderails
plus I took the wide bit of brass plate and trimmed 2 skinning strips





I repeated on the other side

I do have this chassis fitted out and ran same test laps the see how it runs
it is very smooth, quiet and handles well
I now need to mount the body which i will get sorted over the weekend
then I will paint the chassis and refit it out
so stay tuned

ok I now have the body mounted and interior done

to mount the body I cut 2 bits of L plastic to a length that fits in the side pans with a bit of space
on to ends so they don't bind on the ends





I hold the plastic to the chassis with a very thin bit of blue tack
added some glue to the outside edges and placed the body in position using the tires to hold it the spot I wanted
I do this by having the tires set out a little bit wider than they will be once set up properly
once dry I added more glue to make sure they are solid



then I drilled 4 holes in the side pans that are a fraction bigger than the body screws
Then I placed the chassis in position on the body while upside down
and drilled the holes into the plastic body mounts that where just a bit smaller than the screw
I then used a m2 tap to thread the hole



added the exhurst pipes



clean up the solder and then the chassis went to the paint shop

now it was time to sort the interior

I took the interior that was in the body when it was first built a few years back
it was the original kit interior that was cut down to a half style interior
but I cut the sides of the interior as I didn't like how it fitted and I wanted more room for the motor

I cut a piece of blister packaging plastic
put a couple of bends in it
glued the front and rear section to it
then painted it
once dry I glued the driver and steering wheel in place
I wanted to retain the full dash board and a bit more of the driver
plus the club rules state that it must have at least a half interior for this class



once that was sorted I made a roll cage from thin brazing rod
I just bent to fit by doing one bend and checking it was right and then done the next bend etc
once I had one done I mirrored the other side
then cut the cross pieces and soldered it all together





once it was painted I then clear epoxied the roll cage in to the body
slid the interior in and hot glued into place



by the time this was done the chassis was back from the paint shop
so I fitted it out to a running chassis



motor - 18k scaly { club rules say 18k max }
gears - slot-it 9/27
rear tires - NSR ultra grip
guide - ninco prprace with slot-it soft braid

so now all I need to do is fit the wheel inserts
but the inserts I want to use are a fraction bigger dia than the rims I will need to sand them down
then get them painted
hope to have that done in the next few days

Nice job. Let's us know how it does locally.

Cheers

Dan

ok she is all finished and ready for racing

first a quick pic of how this car used to look when it was first built a few years back
it was on a scaly ford taurus Chassis with a slot-it 21.5k motor



I do believe she is a real little beauty now
just hope she is on pace and can get the odd podium finished







thanks for following my build

Just a great build sir. It looks great and very interesting chassis. Appreciate your showing the body mounts, it's always good to see the different methods used.

Outstanding!

Top Class!!! The "new" paint job is very well done and looks good on the car, great work.
I must add that the first paint job was also super cool!! Hard to pick a favourite....
Well done!

Cheers
Clive