thanks guy's
shotgun I am one of those guy's that just works with what I have
a bit more done
i drilled the holes for the motor pod by sitting it in place and then with a very skinny drill bit
I drilled down through the screw holes
then I removed the pod and drilled the holes a little bigger on the top that was just enough to allow the screw to fit
the bottom hole was made big enough to fit the screw head in
that tucks thehead of the screw away nice and neat
I cut a piece of the retangle tube for the guide mount and drilled a hole to fit the small section of steel tube for the guide
then I measured how long the guide mount needed to be and trimmed to length
put the axle tube in to the uprights of the side rails
I placed it in place then took one of the short bent pieces of wire a clamped it in to place
then soldered the wire to the guide mount
there is no need to center the guide mount at this point as all I am doing is getting the wire in the right spot
once that was ready I fitted the wheels/tires to the rear
put the front axle in the axle tube and fitted the front wheels/tires
then drop the front setup in to the side rail uprights
I use a plastic bread tag for getting my front end sitting the right height that leaves just the right amount of
room for the braids
but as plastic doesn't like heat I made a spacer out of panel steel
both of these are .8mm thick
I also used a bar magnet that was the same thickness as the flat base of the ninco prorace guide
this gives me a front end that has the fronts tires just touching the setup board with minimal weight on the
front wheels
when I had the guide centered and held in place I soldered it all together
I put clips on the front axle between the chassis and the wheels for a heat sink
then I soldered the steel guide mount tube in place making sure it was square
and filed the front excess round to allow the guide to fit and turn freely
next I will trim all the extra wire off and tidy up
and fit side plates for mounting the body