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Bravo, ya done good! That UV glue worked great for an application that's almost impossible to clamp. I've resorted to a complex system of rubber bands and cut-off Q-Tips.

I'm making some progress with my Galaxie too, but as it will be my Showdown entry, it's way too soon for pictures.

Wow, that looks good enough to eat ... it's making my mouth water.

.....ZOOM.......... :dance:

Awesome tips Harry...those decals really "POP" with those sanding techniques!!! Beautimus build and looks to be a great runner!! :auto-driving: :auto-driving:

That is skill and art combined...super job, well done!!!! My next one might look like that....I wish

Cheers
Clive

Great tips Harry! Car came out great!

Thanks guys, appreciate the kind words.

I dunno. I think it needs a solid testing session at the PDR...

Ok.

That is one SHARP looking machine!

Never thought about using one of those UV pens for glass - it looks like I have a reason to finally break down and order one as that look a WHOLE lot easier to do than to fight with trying not to cloud the glass!
(having to go back with Novus Plastic Polish to remove the haze is NOT fun!)
Thanks for sharing Harry!

You are welcome, glad it helped.

One of those things that just works. Like our ceramic honeycomb boards, Future, etc. Something out of nowhere that is perfect for the job. :)

Very nice work!!!

Bruce

Resin wheels are never a good idea.

You can cast re-pop them and MAYBE work for a front. I have never bothered. They will still need sanding and truing. Think lathe. You will break the hub every time trying to tighten the screws. Just FYI, many emails I get are how to remove a stripped set screw. Because they overtightened. This is on aluminum (Slot.it, MB, CB Design). You will crack them unless you are VERY, VERY careful.

Press on is no option. Too brittle. Crack again. Even using softer shore 65-55 like I use won't cut it.

And at the end of the day, what cost savings? Silicone isn't being given away. Neither the resin. And then YOUR TIME to even make the mold. I personally see no cost savings.

And not to be disrespectful, I understand the cost per wheel issue. But there is no shortcut for a quality wheel. All the precision axles, bushings/bearings, etc won't amount to hill of uneaten salad if you are running on egg shaped wheels.

Just my $1.25

Wheel inserts? Oh absolutely. Have casted quite a few. Easy to make and look great. Just depends on the design. A 5 bolt/floater? No problem. An intricate wire wheel such as classic F1? Uhhh, not so great results here.

Hope this helps.