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very nice work so far
I love seeing the processes of body mods and the Technics guy's use

Super job. The nerf bar setup is really nice and will really protect in those rollovers! If you care about scale, yes this is too big to race as a midget racer, since it is about 1/18 scale. However the Strombecker 1/24 Dirt Track Racer (champ car) was true scale drawn by Klindist back in the 60's. The Midget shown here is almost exactly the same size as the the old dirt tracker. If you consider it a champ car, it is about right for 1/24. It is nice to have wide lane spacing with these cars as they do drift and open wheelers are a lot harder to drive thru corners side by side then fendered cars. It sure is fun though and you have to pick your spots to drive next to somebody.

Love the documentary on this! :D

Since the new CB wheels are available now, I thought I would play with my combo on these. Shotgun Dave supplied the awesome tires for my experimentation. Kinda like the stance on this one!
here is the link to new wheels. http://www.slotcarcorner.com/Scratch-Bu ... p2179.html

Very nice progress on an unusual car in a different scale I really like the black and cream paint on the one you were showing.

Cheers

Dan

The nerf bars are so nice that I am going to have to make an attempt to do something similiar for the champ cars I build. I don't think I can do as nice a job as you have, but I'll keep trying till I get it right!

Had a few minutes last night to clean and paint the chassis on this one. Pic shows the before and after of the H&R chassis mods. Its as close to scratch building as you get using over the counter parts. I will post pics tonight of the guide tongue modifications.

Bob, I have been using extended Sprintsplus frames feor some of my open wheel builds and I think I'll give that a go on the next couple builds. I have the AMT recent kit motors which are actually pretty good, so except for tires and wheels these will be pretty cheap builds. I did see a guy selling some old Riggen stock on Ebay and he has the kits they did with vac bodies, Sprintsplus frames and 16D home set motors for $19. That would be a pretty cheap chassis needing probably only tires to complete it. Not sure if the sponge in those kits is any good for our purpose, the O ring fronts certainly aren't.

I said I would address the guide issue, so here goes. Many of you might not mind the guide hanging out in front of the car, but it drives me crazy! :naughty: I like my cars to look as realistic as I can. not that I don't fudge here and there, but this one just don't work for me. This is the guide as comes on the chassis. Strip all the front half down,and get out the dremel or file either will work. I'm lazy, so I use the dremel and milling bit to remove the shaded area. We are going to add a piece of brass tubing at this point also to strengthen the axle supports. I use K&S 8128 1/8" inside diameter tubing for this. You must ream out the very front axle hole, as we will remove the rest during the chassis cut down I already shown. Solder in a piece of tubing that fits whatever guide you want to use (I use the slotting plus deep wood guide), and remove the excess brass. shape the remaining guide tongue to allow as much travel as you need or want. The new mounting of the guide actually reinforces the pivot area, and keeps the load off the pin.