1/18 scale Monogram Midget project

[btaylor]

Parts came in today! so I can begin the build and documenting of my build off car. I would like to mention that I usually build my own brass chassis, and order all the small parts to build whatever I am doing at the time. However, I found that using the H&R chassis as a starting point, costs about the same, or even cheaper than individual parts. This build is for our series here, and will be sort of the spec. build for all who enter our races. That being said, here is my starting point, The main ingredients for the build. Pics of Modifications and fitment to follow. These are the basic tools used for this build. Pretty basic really, The dremel being the only tool that can set you back a few bucks. But scratch building without one is darn near impossible to me.
Bob

[btaylor]

Chassis is stripped and marked for cutting. Using a dremel and cut off wheels for this task.
Cuts made and ready for sanding all cut edges. More to come!

[btaylor]

After cutting down and dressing up the chassis a bit. I thought I would turn to the body, as it will be used for test fitting very soon. First thing I do on these, is to sand all body mating surfaces flat. This is basic model building, but it needs said, as the final fit and finish will be effected at this point.

[btaylor]

This pic shows where the body will trimmed away for chassis clearance, but don't do this just yet, as we will need to fit the engine/exhaust so we have good alignment after the floor is removed.

[btaylor]

I found that a piece of 1/4 styrene plastic works great for the engine spacing we need. The motor halves get glued together, and the top of the engine needs to be sanded flat. Then glue the styrene spacer to the top of the engine like this. when its time to attach the engine to the hood, you will need to sand the styrene block on an angle that will allow the hood to fit flush.Once the engine is dry, and the bottom removed for wire clearance, The finished fitment should look like this. The arrow shows the rear exhaust mounting hole.

[btaylor]

While the body halves are drying, We can turn back to the chassis work. I make my front and rear bars in one piece for these midgets. Its strong, and makes soldering them to the chassis very easy. My high tech wire bending device is just what you see! I cut a piece of 1/16 brass rod longer than what I need, and bend it around the top of a testors paint bottle. The bends for the radius rods can then be made with needle nose pliar's as seen. Both front and rear can be made this way. The scrap pieces of brass tubing are soldered on to the ends of each radius bar to act as body mounting holes when finished. When test fit they will be soldered to the chassis like this.

[Nor Cal Mike]

Lookin good Bob! I like the method for building bars that you came you with. They are the nicest, simplest and probably about the most durable that I have seen done. These classic midgets are cool.

[btaylor]

Thanks Mike! I am glad you like them! The bars have to be sturdy when racing with my bunch. we get a bit pushy in the heat of the race. :lol: here is one I finished while doing the Build off.

[btaylor]

Heres a fun thing to do while waiting on glue or paint to dry! Since we need wheel inserts for the H&R wheels.( at least I do, as I like scale realism), You can temporarily glue one of the kit wheels on to the bottom side of a drill bit. Cut the plastic tire off with an exacto knife, then chuck it up in your cordless and sand it to fit inside the wheel snugly. Paint as needed.

[btaylor]

Ok, The kit engine is drying, so we know that we will have a good fit on the exhaust when done. Time to remove all the excess plastic to clear the chassis. Again, this is done with the dremel and sanded smooth. I take as much of the sides at the bottom as I can, but leave as much of the roll on the body so it looks good when done. We can also give clearance for the front and rear axles at this time. not to much, as we can remove more as needed during final body fitment before paint.
We can also remove the marked area at the bottom of the engine for Motor wire clearance at this point. Should look like this when done.

[chappy]

Wow Bob , you are a Motor Head Maniac.
What a great build
Bob

[RazorJon]

Hey I built one of these years ago, they told me it was 2 big to race, good looking build, we will have to get them together for a race

[glasshorsevh]

Ok, This is way out of the norm for anything I would think of building. I wouldn't even have anywhere to run it, but I have to say this build as presented is very tempting. Outstanding work!

Val...

[btaylor]

[HomeRacingWorld]

The wheel insert method is nice to see. Sometimes the simple things deserve the attention. Long before I had a lathe or Razor I used my old drill. The lathe is gone but the drill lives on :)