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Hey there, long-time HO guy here. I've always thought 1/32 scale looked awesome, but I've never taken the plunge to move up to the big scales. I guess this is my chance!

This is my first 1/32 car. I'm going with a Pioneer '67 Mustang notchback. My dad has owned a '68 since it was new, so I've always been partial to this body style. (It's the only new car he ever owned. 457,000 miles on it now. But that's a story for another day...)

The chassis basically stock, with the exception of Ortmann rear tires. I've followed the HRW video instructions to free up some body float.

The body is painted in tribute to the 50th anniversary of Dan Gurney's Belgian GP victory. Everyone seems to have their own idea of what color blue to use for the classic AAR cars. I've seen models of the 1970 AAR 'Cudas, for example, ranging in everything from a bright Blue Angels color to almost black. I ended up going with Tamiya TS-64 Deep Mica Blue. To my eye, this color is a too dark, but not too bad. (It's not quite as dark as it looks in the photo). The metallic flakes are very fine, so it doesn't have that "out-of-scale-super-big-metallic-flake" look.

Just a quick intro post. More to come later...

Looks good Wildstar. Do you have a track to run it on? Good to see another Michigander on here.

Dave

Welcome to the wonderful world of HRW...WS!! The body looks fantastic!! Looking forward to seeing the final results!!

Thanks for the good words! I glued most of the body bits back on last night and did another test-fit to the chassis. I've found a few more areas to remove material for better float.

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I had great plans to replace the Mr. Pioneer driver with a Dan Gurney figure from Immense Miniatures, but I'm running short on time. I'm sticking with the stock interior and figure for now.

Question for y'all...

I'm guessing the little unit behind the front axle is for digital racing? Is that right? Should I bypass and remove it? Or just leave it the way it is? If I do bypass it, what size wire do you guys recommend? 18 gage?

You have arrived at one of the things that we talk about all the time. First of all, yes. that's what that is. Secondly, like everything else, people do different things with it. I usually remove it and the electronic hoohah that is needed for European markets to suppress radio interference. I replace it with silicone insulated wire from Prof Motor or SCC. Be particularly careful with the guide connections. It needs to be nice and solid up front for that day when someone's body screw gets sideways in the slot and you slam into it. Yes, it happens in 1/32nd, too, just like in HO- its just a little more spectacular.

If you ever start using Bluetooth around your race track you will need to add in all the European hooha. :D The new wireless laptiming systems etc will not play well with motors that do not have this. Having said that if you are not planning on having any bluetooth devices around you don't need it

OK, digital chip and capacitors are gone. I had some 18 gauge wire. It's not as flexible as I would like, but I think it will do the job.

Next question: The car came with two guide flags -- one standard depth and one extra deep. I'm assuming that deeper is better, as long as it's not too deep for the slot. Soooo...for typical 1/32 track, should I go with the deeper guide? Or will I run a risk of bottoming out on standard track?

Sorry about that. No such thing as standard track! Generally, wood tracks have a deeper slot because we take the magnets out and tack messages to the fridge with them. On Carrera track (if you are going to have plastic track, that's the one to have unless you can get Scaley Sport track for free from someone who is changing to Carrera), you will have lots of room for a big guide. Scaley Sport track and Ninco track are smaller scale, and tighter turns are available, and a big Carrera keel guide will stick hard on an R-1. No big deal, just shave a little off the rear to make it shorter front to back. For older Scaley track, called "Classic", a Carrera guide will usually need to be shaved along the bottom edge to keep from hanging up in track joints. Eh, never mind all that. Build a wood track and be happy forever!

very nice paint scheme :text-yeahthat:

I was in the metro Detroit area for business today, so I stopped by Cloverleaf Racing on the way home. It was good to get a chance to put the car on a track before I put it in the mail. And it runs! I also was introduced to Slot Car Corner guide flags and braids, as well as some nice flexible wire to replace the wires I put on last night. And I got a lot of good advice.

Car is finished and just about ready to ship. Which brings up one more question: How the heck do you guys recommend packaging cars for shipping? In the original plastic it came in? Or just stuff it in a cardboard box with some bubble wrap?

If you haven't shipped yours yet I'll show you a picture of some of my boxes. But basically a box slightly larger than the car and bubble wrap the car well. Um still waiting for my email to send the pictures. Stuck in my phone outbox.