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Home Racing World • View topic - Harry's resin seminar
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Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 7:06 pm
by Junior
After participating in Harry's grueling but informative resin seminar over Labor Day, I decided to dip my toes in the resin water. I used some of the items I had laying around and made some molds. Still learning, need to mix the resin a little better and pour a little faster, some of my castings are a little squishy and I have my fair share of headless drivers but it is fun giving it a go. Thanks to everyone on this forum, it has all been helpful.
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Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 7:29 pm
by HomeRacingWorld
LOL, yes it was rather grueling :)

Looks like you are well on your way sir. Remember that Camaro nailed to my post? Yep, we have start somewhere! (It still hasn't dried).

Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 7:29 pm
by Junior
Do you want a driver that can do the Macarena? LOL

Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2016 7:30 pm
by HomeRacingWorld
If I say yes, does that make me a bad person? :banana-dance:

Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 12:36 pm
by strangebrew
I was so good at it in the beginning, that some of my bodies are pieces of two failures glued together. :?:
NEVER throw anything away.

Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 5:23 pm
by burad
Wow. i never thought about using Legos to make mold frames. Cool.

Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 5:45 pm
by Junior

Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 6:01 pm
by mattb
I've used Legos for quite awhile and I found that it is a good idea to tape the outside bottom edges to your work top. A few times I've had silicone leak out the bottom of the mold sides. A good taping will keep this from happening. I have some legos that are about 1/2 inch wide and up to 3 inches long. They work great for a bigger mold like a body.

Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 6:27 pm
by HomeRacingWorld
Never give up.
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Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 7:21 pm
by Junior
Working on my Halloween themed driver collection, the headless drivers. LOL!

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Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 7:21 pm
by Junior
Working on my Halloween themed driver collection, the headless drivers. LOL!
(Sorry about the double post, my machine had a little vapor lock)
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Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 7:23 pm
by cantstopnow

Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 8:13 pm
by munter
I still use lego blocks for my body mould boxes and like in the picture I have had many failures...it is the successes that keep me going.

I keep learning about techniques, equipment and methods so it is the journey that I enjoy.

Some people say how do you do it?...I dont know, I am still learning.

Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 8:43 pm
by chappy
Instead of tape on my lego mold boxes, i use a bead of hot glue on the i sode.
Does the same thing as regards leakage, but it stops it getti g under the lego blocks.
I firmly believe that there are no such things as errors or mistakes when doing this type of thing.
They are all learning opportunities. And i have had my share too.
Bob

Re: Harry's resin seminar

PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 12:08 am
by Retro Racer 44
Harry, that Camaro looks like you could make a Hallowe'en mask from it. Scary!

If you use one of the flat base sheets with the Lego you don't need glue. If you are using a plastic body for the buck, fill it with Plasticene and just press it to the floor of the Lego.

Last year for my Studebaker and my Topolino, since they were wood and would float in the resin, I drilled a small hole in the middle of the sheet and screwed the wooden buck in from the bottom. Once the buck is in place, it is easy to gauge how big a Lego box to build around it. After it is set, just unbuild the walls and remove the mould. You may need to trim a bit of silicone to open up the bottom, but that is good as it leaves a bit of an edge to prevent spilling while sloshing. Start with a smaller hole than necessary and then trim outwards until you can get the buck out easily. If the buck will come out, so will the casting.

For small items, other small containers can be used. I used a yogurt cup for a driver mould, and plastic packaging bubbles for moulding wheel insert.

Cheers,

Keith